| Summary: | Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution December 1980 Data from the COBOLT experiment, which investigated the first 12 km off Long Island's south shore, are analyzed and discussed. Moored current meter records indicate that the nearshore flow field is strongly polarized in the alongshore direction and its fluctuations are well correlated with local meteorological forcing. Complex empirical orthogonal function analysis suggests that subtidal velocity fluctuations are barotropic in nature and are strongly influenced by bottom friction. Wind-related inertial currents were observed within the coastal boundary layer (CBL) under favorable meteorological and hydrographical conditions. The magnitude of these oscillations increases with distance from shore, and they display a very clear 180° phase difference between surface and bottom layers. Nearshore inertial oscillations of both velocity and salinity records appear to lead those further seaward, suggesting local generation and subsequent radiation away from the coast. The response of the coastal zone to impulsive wind forcing is discussed using simple slab and two-layer models, and the behavior of the nearshore current field examined. The major features of the observed inertial motions are in good qualitative agreement with model predictions. It is found that, in a homogeneous domain, the coastal boundary condition effectively prohibits inertial currents over the entire coastal zone. In the presence of stratification the offshore extent of this prohibition is greatly reduced and significant inertial currents may occur within one or two internal deformation radii of the coast. The "coastal effect", in the form of surface and interfacial waves which propagate away from the coast, modifies the "pure" inertial response as it would exist far from shore. The kinematics of this process is such that a 180° phase difference between ...
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