Mount Whitney. Its Ascent by John Muir, the Explorer and Geologist. Different Routes-The Ascent from the East-A Minor Yosemite-Glacier Meadows and Glacier Lakes-Glorious Views-Successive Ascents. (Special Correspondence of the Bulletin.).
Its Ascent toy John Bffuir, the Explorer and Geologist* Different Kontes—The Ascent from t!ie East— A Minor Yosemite—Glacier Meadows and Glacier Shakes—Gtlorious Views—Successive Ascents. [SPECIAL CORRESPONDENCE OF THE BULLETIN.! Independence, layo County, August 17,1875. Men ascend mountains as ins...
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Scholarly Commons
1875
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| Summary: | Its Ascent toy John Bffuir, the Explorer and Geologist* Different Kontes—The Ascent from t!ie East— A Minor Yosemite—Glacier Meadows and Glacier Shakes—Gtlorious Views—Successive Ascents. [SPECIAL CORRESPONDENCE OF THE BULLETIN.! Independence, layo County, August 17,1875. Men ascend mountains as instinctively as squirrels ascend trees, and, of course, tbe climbing of Mount Whitney was a capital indulgence, apart from the enjoyment drawn from landscapes and scientific pursuits. We set out from the little village of Independence with plenty of excelsior determination, Bayley, as usual, rejoicing in warwhoops, much to the wonderment of sober passers-by. The massive sun-beaten Sierra rose before us out of the gray sagebrush levels like one vast wall 9,000 feet high, adorned along the top with a multitude of peaks that seem to have been niekedoutinall kinds of fanciful forms for the sake of beauty. Mount Whitney is one of those wall-top peaks, having no special geological slgnifl cance beyond the scores of nameless peak amid which it stands, and possessing so littie appreciable individuality that we did not meet a single person living here who was able to print it out. ' Where is Mount. Whitney ? we would ask the teamsters and farmers we met between Independence and Lone Pine, "Don't know exactly" was the common reply. " One of them topmost peaks you see yonder" at the same time waving their hands indefinitely toward the wilderness of summits. tor those travelers who disuse climbing, tbe proper way to the top of Whitney lies from Lone Pine around the southern extremity of the High Sierra to the Upper Kern liver Valley, by way of Cottonwood Creek. Tbe mountain is thus approached from tne west where the slopes are iowesr, and where one may easily ride to an ele'vation of 12,000 feet above sea-level, leaving only a light foot scramble of between 2,500 and 8,000 feet to be made in reaching the utmost summit whereas, by the quick direct route discovered by me two years ago, leading up the east fiankof the range opposite Lone Pine, tne elevation ro be overcome by foot climbing amounts to about 9,000 feet. THE ascent. With the exception of our one young student, our party were mountaineers; and we chose the eastern route, the mountain influences bearing us buoyantly aloft without leaving ns any gross weight to overcome by ordinary conscious effort. On the first day we rode our mules some eighteen miles, through a fine, evenly-planted growth of sage-brush to the foot of the range, immediately west of Lone Pine. Here we "found a man;' a whole- souled WelcbmaD, by the name of Thomas, wi'.h whom we camped for the night, and where all was made ready for an eariy start np the mountain next morning. Each carried a loaf of bread, a handful of tea and a tincup, and a block of beef about four inches in diameter, cut from the lean heartwood of a steer the whole compactly bundled In half a blanket, and carried by a strap passed over the shoulder, and beside these common necessaries, Bayley carried a small bottle of spirits for healing, sustaining, and fortifying uses, in case of eEcbnntei'3 with triangular headed snake', bears, Indians, mountain rams, noxious night airs, snow storms, etc.; and in case of vertigo and difficult breathing at great heights, together with broken bones, flesh wounds, skin ero3ions, abrasions, contusions. For in prudence, is it not well to realize that " something might happen" and well to have a helpful spirit—a guardian angel in a bottle ever near? The highway by which we ascended was constructed by an ancient glacier that drew its scources from the eastern flank of Monnt Whitney and the adjacent summits, and poured its icy floods into Owens Valley, which during the glacial epoch was a sea of ice. Of this mighty, rock-crushing ice-river, scarce a vestige remains, and its channel is now occupied by a dashing crystal stream tnat kept us good company all the way to the summit. The day was warm, and many were the delicious lavings we enjoyed among its pools beneath the cooling shadows of its leafy border groves. Tbe great i d clivity of tne canon gives rise to numerous ranids and cascades, along the edges cf winch, soil of sufficient depth for the best wild gardens and thickets cannot be made to lie; but small cval fiats of rich alluvium occur between the rocky i inclines, rising one above another in almost regular order like stairs. Here the alder and the birch ! grow close together in luxuriant masses, crossing their topmost branches above the streams, and I weaving a bowery root. A MINOR YOSEMITE. J At an elevation of about 8,000 feet above the sea we come to a fine Yosemite Valley, where a large tributary glacier from the southwest had united with the main trunk. The sheer granite walls rise loftily into the pure azure to the height of from two to three thousand feet, sculptured in true Yosemitic style, and presenting a most lavish abundance ot spires and gothic gables along the top, with huge buttresses and free and interlacing arches down the face, with numerous caves and niches for ornamental groups of pines. Nor is there any lack ol white falling water, nor Of tender joyous plant beauty, to complement every manifestation of stern, enduring rockmess. For a distance of two or three nines above the head of this wilJ Yosemite the ascent is rather steep and difficult, because be canyon walls come sheer down in many places to the brink of tne rushing stream, leaving no free mas- gin lor a walk, and in many places a dense growth of ale'er and willow, crushed and felted with the pressure of winter snow, rendersthe gorge all but impassable, the dead limbs all sloping downward, meeting the up-ssracsiiric mountaineer l'ke clusters of pi'-ssiiied Dayonttf. The difficulties I encountered in forcing my way tnrcugh this portion ot the gorge during my first ascent caused me to scan the gaps and terraces of tne south wail, with a view to avoiding the bouom of the gorge altogether. Coming to the conclusion that the thing was at least practicable, I led tae party over aiouch earthquake talus, beneath an overhanging cliff, and up an extremely steep and narrow gully to the edfie of tne main canyon wall. AN ACCIDENT—GLACIER MEADOWS—A GLIMPSE OP WHITNEY. Here occurred the only accident worth mentioning connected with the t. i,i. Washburn, who climbs slowly, was scon a considerable cli tance in tl e rear, an*. I sat down at the head cf tbs narrow gully to wait tor him. Bayley soon came up somewhat breathless wita exertion, and without thi'king of con-sequences, loosened a big boulder that went bounding down the narrow lane with terrible with exertion and without thinking of cons- quences, loosened a big boulder that went bounding down the narrow lane with terrible energy, followed by a train or small stoats and dusi. Washburn was about a huudred feet, be- . 1 at, and his destruction s ejied mvi able, as he was i hemmed in oetween two sheer walls not five feet, j apart. We shouted to give him warning, aDd listened breaihlesslynm.il nis answering shout assured us of nis escape. Oncoming up weary and nerve-shaken with fright, he reported that the dangerous mass shot imrmd a e.y over him as he 'ay crouched in a sliguc ho 1 )K. Fal i g rccss, single or in avilancaes, lorui tne greatest of all tne perils that beset the mountaineer among the summit peaks. By noon we reached a genuine glacier meadow, where we disturbed a baDd of wild sheep tuatwent bounding across the stream and up the precipitous recks out of sight. We were now 10,000 feet above sea level, and were in tne Alps; having passed in half a day from the torrid plains of Owens Valley to an Arctic climate, cool and distant is all its sounds and aspects as Greenland or Labrf clor. Here we caught our first fair view of the jagged, storm-worn crest of Mount Whitney, yet far above ard beyond, looming gray and ruin-like from a multitude of shattered ridges and spires. Onward we pushed, unwearied, waking hosts of new echoes with . shouts of emphatic excelsior. Along the green, pius-hy meadow, following its graceful margin carves, then up msged slopes ot gray bowlders that bad thundered from the shatterea heights in an earthquake, then over smooth polished glacier pavements to the utmost limits of the timber line, and our first day's climbing was done. CAMPING ON THE MOUNTAIN. Our elevation was now eleven thousand five hundred feet, and as the afternoon was less than half done, Wi ■bad ample, time to prepare beds, make tea, and gather a "store, of pitchy pine roots fir our night lire. We'chose rhe same camping ground I had selected two years before on tne edge of a sedgy meadow enamelled with buttercups and daises, near a waterfall and snowbank, and surrounded with ranks of majestic alps. There were the withered pine tassels on which I had slept, and circling heap of sanes built as a shelter from the down rushing night wind, and ihe remains of my wood-pile gathered in case of a sudden snow-storm. Each made his own tin cupful of lea, and dinner was speedily accomplished. Then bed-building was vigorously carried on, each selecting willow shoots, pine tassels or withered grass with a zeal ana naturalness whose sources must lie somewhere among our ancient grandfathers, when "wild in wood?" etc. I have experimented with all kinds of plant pillow3 with especial reference to softness and fragrance, and here I was so happy as to invent a new one, composed of the leaves and flowers of the alpine dodecatheoD. elastic, fragrant and truly beautiful. Here we rested as only mountaineers can. The wind fell to sift wt-isDers, keen spiky sludows stole over the meadow, and pale rosy light batbei! the savage peaks, making a picture ot Nature's roose that no words can ever describe. Darkness-came, and tne night wind began to flow lue a deep and gentle river; the cascades near by sounded all its notes with most impressive distinctness, and the sky glowed with living stars. Then came the mooD, awakening the giant peaks that i eemed to return her solemn gaze. J'rne grand beauty ot our chamber walls came out in wonderfully clear relief, white light and jet shadows revealing their wild fountain architecture, divested of all distracting detail*. STILL UPWARD—GLACIER LAKES—VEGETATION. We rose early and were off in the first flash of dawn, passing first over a rounded ice-polished brotv, then along the north shore of a glacier lake whose simple new-born beauty ercbanted u? all. It lay imbedded in the rocks like a dark bine green—a perfect mountain eye. Along its northern shore we sped jo.v- ously, inspired with the fresh unfolding beauties of tne morning, lea-clog huge blocks of porphyry laid down by an ancient earthquake, and over moramat embankments and slopes of crystalline grave'; eveiy muscle in harmonious accord, thrilled aud-ouej anc yielding us the very highest pleasures of tne jl»st. Speedily we meet the glaoc. s of another crystal lake. and.of our dearest alpine flowers azure daisies and primulas, cassiope anil bryanthus, the very angels of mountain flora. Now tee sun rose, and filled the roci- s with beamkss spir.lual light. The Clark crow- was on ihe wing, and the frisky tarnias aud marmo , came out to t-ask on. favorite boulder-, and the daisies snread their ravs and were glad. Above the second lake basin we found a long up- curving field of frozen snow, across which we scampered, with our breasts filled with exonerating azure, leaping with exeess of strength and rolling over and 1 over en tee clean snow-ground, like dog". SCALING THE DIVIDING RIDGE—AT THE SUMMIT. We followed the snow nearly to its upper limir, where it leaned against the dividing axis of fee range, placing our feet iu hollows melted by radiated heat fiom stones shot down from tbe crumbling nights. To scale the dividing ridge m front was impossible, for it swept aloft in one colossal wave with a vertical shattered crest. We were therefore compelled t$ swerve to the north then carefully picking our way irora ledge to ledge, gained the summit about 8 A. M. There stood Mount Whitney now without a singl-i ridge between; its spreading base within a stone's throw; its pointed, iselmet-sliaped summit 2,000 feet above us. We gazed but a moment on the surrounding grandeur: the mighty granite battlements; tie dark pine woods far below, and the glistening streamsand lakes; tben dasoed adown the western slope into tbe valley of ibeKeru. On my first ascent I pushed direct to trie snnm.it up the north flank, but the memories of steep slopes of ice aud snow over which I had to pick my way, holding on by small piinis of stones frozen mure or less surely into tne sunace, where a sifcgte siio would result in dsatb, made me determine that no one woult ever b? led ty ms throuah the same dangers-. I therefore led around the north base of I ihe mountain to ths westward, much to Bayley';; at— ! ansr, who declared that he coub', or at least would follow wherever I was able to lead. Cautious Wasii- buru wisely give in his adhesion for tbe longer and safer route; tind I remained fiim in avoidiug t.ne dange.ro.us ice slopes. We passed along the locxy shores of a iake whose sBrface, was still (July 21st) covered with cakes ol winter ice, arouud th; edges cf whifch the color of the water was a. Deautilu! emerald green. Beyond tbe lake we gradually climbed SJber, moun:ing in a spiral around tae northwest should:'.-- of '.he mountain, crossing many a strong projecting buttress aud fluting hollo*, men beating to the left urged our way directly to the summit, Higher, higt.er, we climbed with muscles m excellent poise, tbe !.;:.■:::.■; becoming more and more glorious as the wild Alps rose in thetraBquus*. Baylt y followed closely, tiineotrug toe abse«ce or danger, whenever in this attenuated air he could command sufficient breath. Washburn seldom ventured to ieap from rock to rock, out moved mostly on all fours, hugging projecting angles and boulders in a sprawled, outspread fashion, like a child clinging timidly to its mother, often calling for directions around this or that precipice, and careful never to look down for fear of giddiness, yet from first to last evincing a most admirable determination and persistence of the slow and sure kind. Shortly after 10 o'clock A. M. we gained the utmost 3ummit—a fact duly announced by Bayley as soon as he was rested Into a whoopmg condition, and before any note was taken of the wilderness of landscapes by which we were zoned. Undemonstrative Washburn examined the records of antecedent visitors, then remarked with becoming satisfaction, " I'm the first and oniy student visitor to this highest land in North America." SUCCESSIVE ASCENTS—CLARENCE KING'S MISTAKE. This mountain was first ascended in the summer of 1873, by a party of farmers and stock raisers from Owens Valley, who were taking exercise. Itwasas- cended a few weeks later by Clarence King, myself ar d a few others, and this summer by one party besides our own. The first climbers of the mountain named it Fisherman's Peak. The mountain climed by Clarence King several years previous, and supposed by him to be the high! st in the range, and on which he then bestowed the name of Whitney, lies some six or seven miles to the south of the present Mount Whitney, alias Fisherman's Peak. Tbe old Mount Whitney, though upward of 14,000 feet in height, may easily be ascended to the very summit on horseback, and, in general, every mountain in the range may easily be ascended by climbers of ordinary nerve and skill. Mount Whitney has not yet been accurately measured, although fair approximations have been reached, making its height about W,S0O feet above the sea. Mount Shasta, situated near tne northern extremity of the range, is a few hundred feet lower; yet its individual height, measured from its own proper base, is from nine to eleven thousand feet, while that of Whitney- is only from two to three thousand. The former is a colossal cone rising in solitary grandeur and might well be regarded as an o'slect of religions worship; tne laiteris one of the many peaks of an irregular and fragmentary form. Snasta was built upward by fire, Whitney was built downward by ice. I would gladly try to write a lew words concerning the landscapes that lav manifest in all their glory beneath and arouu.: us. but their is no room here. We left tbe summit about noon an:.', swooped to the torrid plains belore sundown, as if dropping out of the sky. JOHN MUIR. https://scholarlycommons.pacific.edu/jmb/1029/thumbnail.jpg |
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