ANALIZA PRIMERNOSTI NAPREDNIH TEHNOLOGIJ ZA NAKUPOVANJE OBLAČIL PO MERI PRI STAREJŠIH LJUDEH

• Main Author: Žuraj, Milica
• Other Authors: Kofjač, Davorin
• Format: Master Thesis
• Language: Slovenian
• Published: 2016
• Subjects: starejši ljudje; izdelava oblačila po meri; napredne tehnologije; postopek pridobivanja telesnih mer; spletno nakupovanje oblačil; older people; manufacturing of custom made apparel; advanced technologies; the process of obtaining body dimensions; online apparel shopping; sami
• Online Access: https://dk.um.si/IzpisGradiva.php?id=55735; https://dk.um.si/Dokument.php?id=85412&dn=; http://www.cobiss.si/scripts/cobiss?command=DISPLAY&base=cobib&rid=7513875&fmt=11

Demografske spremebe z rastjo števila starejšega prebivalstva ustvarjajo ogromne tržne priložnosti za oblačilno industrijo. Starejši kupci se že več kot destletje soočajo z izzivi, da na trgu vnaprej izdelanih oblačil najdejo izdelke ustrezne velikosti in stila, ki so udobna in se ustrezno prilegajo obliki telesa. Spremembe, ki nastajajo s starostjo, kot so anatomske, fiziološke, sociološke, ekonomske in okoljske, lahko vplivajo na preference starejših ljudeh glede prileganja oblačil. Starejši želijo kakovostna oblačila, ki zagotavljajo lep videz in omogočajo maksimalno udobnost med nošenjem. Tehnologije za računalniško antropometrijo in CAD-sistemi za oblikovanje oblačil lahko zagotovijo koristne informacije, kako izboljšati prileganja oblačila obliki telesa starejših kupcev. Glavni namen magistskega dela je bil, poiskati ustrezno rešitev, ki bo omogočila enostaven nakup oblačil, ki po svojih funkcionalnih in estetskih lastnostih odgovarjajo potrebam in željam starejših kupcev. Namen je bil tudi raziskati nakupovalne navade in želje starejših kupcev. Cilj magistrskega dela je ugotoviti, ali imajo starejši ljudi težave pri nakupovanju oblačil v trgovini (tradicionalni in/ali spletni) in pri šivilji. Cilj je bil tudi ugotoviti, ali so starejši zainteresirani za nakup oblačila po meri brez večkratnega pomerjanja s pomočjo napredne tehnologije oziroma programske opreme. Naslednji cilj magistrskega dela je ugotoviti, ali prihaja do odstopanja pri telesnih merah, ko se morajo stranke izmeriti same v primerjavi z merami, ki jih vzame šivilja. Zadnji cilj magistrskega dela je bil pridobiti kakovostne podatke o možnostih uporabe naprednih tehnologij pri spletnem nakupovanju, katere smo s pomočjo različnih metod analizirali ter ugotovili, katere napredne tehnologije so najbolj primerne za nakupovanje oblačila po meri pri starejših ljudeh. V ta namen smo najprej s pomočjo anketnega vprašalnika zbrali podatke in jih analizirali s pomočjo opisne statistike in faktorske analize. Nato smo izvedli eksperiment, v katerem so sodelovale starejše ženske, stare 55 let in več. Testiranke eksperimenta so najprej same izmerile svoje telesne mere za izdelavo oblačila. Pred merjenjem niso dobile nikakršnih navodil za pravilno merjenje. Nato je šivilja izmerila telesne mere testiranki. Testiranke in šivilja so uporabljale enak merilni trak ter so bile oblečene v enaka oblačila, ko so se merile same in ko jih je merila šivilja. Rezultati so pokazali, da imajo starejši od 55 let težave, da najdejo kakovostna oblačila ustrezne velikosti, v katerih se počutijo udobno. Zaradi spremembe telesne višine, teže ter mišičnih in kostnih deformacij, imajo starejši kupci najpogostejše težave pri izbiri hlač. Zato jim mora kupljeno oblačilo, preden ga oblečejo, šivilja skrajšati ali zožiti oziroma razširiti. Ugotovili smo, da je večina anketirancev zainteresirana za nakup oblačila po meri brez večkratnega pomerjanja na internetu. Faktorska analiza je pokazala dva širša vidika razlogov, ki vplivajo na tako vrsto nakupa, in sicer preference kupcev glede kakovosti izdelka in storitev ter preprost in cenovno udoben nakup. Za uspešno izdelavo oblačila po meri za starejše kupce, brez večkratnega pomerjanja, je ključnega pomena zagotoviti kakovostne informacije o telesnih merah in obliki telesa. Na podlagi rezultatov raziskave smo ugotovili, da prihaja do odstopanja v izmeri telesnih mer z merilnim trakom za izdelavo oblačila po meri, ko se kupci sami izmerijo in ko jih izmeri šivilja. Sklepamo lahko, da samomerjenje z merilnim trakom ni zanesljiv postopek pridobivanja telesnih mer za izdelavo oblačila po meri brez večkratnega pomerjanja. Dokazano je, da tehnologija skeniranja telesa zagotavlja bolj natančno pridobivanje telesnih mer kot merilni trak, vendar ima nekatere omejitve, ko se gre za starejše uporabnike. Predlagamo enostavno rešitev, to je uporaba spletne kamere za zajemanje telesnih mer. Demographic changes with the growth of elderly population creates huge market opportunities for the apparel industry. Older customers more than a century face the challenges to find the ready to wear apparel products of appropriate size and style that are comfortable and fit properly to their body shape. The changes that occur with age, such as anatomical, physiological, sociological, economic and environmental changes, may affect the preferences of older people in respect of fit of the apparel. Older people want good quality apparel, which provide good look and allowing for maximum comfort while wearing. Technology of computer anthropometric and CAD systems for designing apparel can provide useful information on how to improve the fit of a garment to the body of older customers. The main purpose of master thesis was to find a proper solution that will allow easy purchase of apparel which, by their functional and aesthetic characteristics, corresponds to the needs and desires of older customers. The purpose was also to investigate purchasing habits and preferences of older customers. The aim of the master thesis is to determine whether older people have difficulty buying clothes in a shop (traditional and/or online) and at the tailors'. The aim was also to determine whether older people are interested in buying custom clothing without multiple try-on with the help of advanced technology (or software). Next objective of master thesis is to determine whether there are discrepancies in the measurement of physical dimensions, where the parties are measured themselves in relation to the dimensions taken by the taylor. The last goal of the master thesis was to obtain quality information on the possibilities of using advanced technologies for online shopping, which we analyzed using a variety of methods, and to determine which advanced technologies are the most suitable for purchasing of custom made apparel in the elderly. To this purpose, we first used a questionnaire to collect data and analyze it by using descriptive statistics and factor analysis. Then we performed experiment where participants were elderly women aged 55 and over. Participants of the experiment first took the body measurements necessary for the manufacture of apparel themselves. Before try-on they did not receive any instruction for proper measurement of body size. Then physical dimensions of the participants was measured by professional taylor. Participants and a taylor used the same measuring tape and participants were wearing the same clothes for self-measurement and when they were measured by seamstress. The results showed that elderly aged 55 and over have problem finding good quality apparel of appropriate size in which they feel comfortable. Due to changes in height, weight, and muscle and bone deformities, the most common problems of the older customers is in the selection of trousers. Therefore, the purchased apparel have to be shortened, narrowed or expanded by seamstress, before they can dress it. We found that the majority of respondents are interested in buying custom made apparel without multiple try-on on the internet. Factor analysis showed two broad perspective of reasons that affect this type of purchase, namely customer preferences with regard to product quality and services, easy purchase and affordable price. To successfully manufacture custom apparel for older customers, without repeated try-on, it is essential to provide quality information on the physical dimensions and shape of the body. Based on the results of our study, we found that there are deviations in measurement of body size with a measuring tape, required for the manufacture of custom apparel, when customers are measured themselves and when measured by a seamstress. We can conclude that self-measurement with the measuring tape is not a reliable method for obtaining physical dimensions required for the manufacture of custom made apparel without multiple try-on.