The average shape of large waves in the Norwegian sea: Is non-linear physics important?

Linear wave theory predicts that in a random sea, the shape of the average wave is given by the scaled autocorrelation function — the “NewWave”. However, the gravity wave problem is non-linear. Numerical simulations of waves on deep water have suggested that their average shape can become modified i...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Volume 7B: Ocean Engineering
Main Authors: Tang, Tianning, Yelland, Margaret J., Adcock, Thomas A. A.
Format: Text
Language:unknown
Published: American Society of Mechanical Engineers 2019
Subjects:
Online Access:http://nora.nerc.ac.uk/id/eprint/526524/
https://doi.org/10.1115/OMAE2019-95068
Description
Summary:Linear wave theory predicts that in a random sea, the shape of the average wave is given by the scaled autocorrelation function — the “NewWave”. However, the gravity wave problem is non-linear. Numerical simulations of waves on deep water have suggested that their average shape can become modified in a number of ways, including the largest wave in a group tending to move to the front of the group through non-linear dispersion. In this paper we examine whether this occurs for waves in the Norwegian Sea. Field data measured from the weather ship Polarfront is analysed for the period 2000 to 2009. We find that, at this location, the effect of non-linearity is small due to the moderate steepness of the sea-states.