Ethnographic reflections on the decontextualization of food heritage in the framework of gastronomic routes in Querétaro (Mexico)
This paper offers a reflexion on the setbacks and paradoxes of food heritage as a resource for economic development in the Querétaro wine region. The formulation of a gastronomic route around the production of wines and cheeses shows the problematic relationship between food heritage and tourism, wh...
| Published in: | Atmospheric Chemistry and Physics |
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| Main Authors: | , |
| Format: | Article in Journal/Newspaper |
| Language: | Spanish |
| Published: |
Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas
2022
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| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | https://dra.revistas.csic.es/index.php/dra/article/view/931 https://doi.org/10.3989/dra.2022.013 |
| Summary: | This paper offers a reflexion on the setbacks and paradoxes of food heritage as a resource for economic development in the Querétaro wine region. The formulation of a gastronomic route around the production of wines and cheeses shows the problematic relationship between food heritage and tourism, which is built on processes of invention, decontextualization and staging. To portray these issues, the results of an ethnographic work carried out in the field are presented, focusing on three specific aspects: the invention of a wine-growing model, the installation of a local agro-industry aimed at reinterpreting European cheeses, and the implementation of scene of agri-food products through gastronomic festivals. The work points out how the tourist promotion of the territory has been based on the invention of food traditions, supposedly local, and establishes its staging through the route created, aimed at tourist consumption and thereby generating a staging that recreates a pretended authenticity. , but which is at the same time a reflection of the actors’ capacity for cultural creativity. En este trabajo se reflexiona sobre las contrariedades y paradojas del patrimonio alimentario en tanto que recurso para el desarrollo económico en la región vitivinícola de Querétaro. La formulación de una ruta gastronómica alrededor de la producción de vinos y quesos exhibe la problemática relación entre patrimonio alimentario y turismo, que se construye sobre procesos de invención, descontextualización y escenificación. Para retratar estas cuestiones, se presentan los resultados de un trabajo etnográfico llevado a cabo sobre el terreno y centrado sobre tres aspectos específicos: la invención de un modelo vitivinícola, la instalación de una agroindustria local orientada a la reinterpretación de quesos europeos y la puesta en escena de los productos agroalimentarios mediante festivales gastronómicos. El trabajo señala cómo la promoción turística del territorio se ha basado en la invención de tradiciones alimentarias, ... |
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