АРХЕОЛОГИЧЕСКИЙ ТЕКСТИЛЬ ИЗ ОСТЯЦКИХ МОГИЛЬНИКОВ XVI-XVII ВВ. КАК ИСТОЧНИК ДЛЯ ИЗУЧЕНИЯ ОДЕЖДЫ СЕЛЬКУПОВ (ПО МАТЕРИАЛАМ РАСКОПОК А.П. ДУЛЬЗОНА НА Р. ОБИ В 1954 Г.)

• Main Authors: БОБРОВА АННА ИВАНОВНА, БОДРОВА АЛЬФИРА ШАЙФУЛЛОВНА
• Format: Text
• Language: unknown
• Published: Федеральное государственное бюджетное образовательное учреждение высшего профессионального образования «Национальный исследовательский Томский государственный университет» 2016
• Subjects: АРХЕОЛОГИЧЕСКИЙ ТЕКСТИЛЬ,РЕКА ОБЬ,МОГИЛЬНИКИ,СЕЛЬКУПЫ,ТЕХНОЛОГИЧЕСКИЙ АНАЛИЗ,ARCHAEOLOGICAL TEXTILES,OB RIVER,CEMETERIES,SELKUP,TECHNOLOGICAL ANALYSIS; ob river; Selkup
• Online Access: http://cyberleninka.ru/article/n/arheologicheskiy-tekstil-iz-ostyatskih-mogilnikov-xvi-xvii-vv-kak-istochnik-dlya-izucheniya-odezhdy-selkupov-po-materialam-raskopok-a-p; http://cyberleninka.ru/article_covers/16938150.png

На основе технологического и сравнительного анализа выявлены виды текстильных материалов из остяцких могильников XVI-XVII в. Пачангского и на Остяцкой Горе, применявшихся при изготовлении одежды предками нарымских селькупов (остяко-самоедов). Показано происхождение этих находок и определена их принадлежность к местному или привозному (импортному) текстилю. Наряду с этим выявлено, имеются ли аналоги данного текстиля среди других погребальных памятников XVI-XVII вв. Прикетья и на р. Оби. The aim of the paper is to examine the textile findings from the above-mentioned burial grounds as an important historical source for studying the traditional costume of the Selkups who lived along the Ob River. Technological analysis is used as one of the basic research methods. The study shows the prevalence of wool fabrics among the textile findings. Six samples of the best preserved wool fabrics were analyzed. It was found out that they were made by plain weave. Fabrics made of medium yarns twisted in one direction according to the Z-Z pattern with a slight felt-like overlay on one side prevail. Two fabric samples with a denser felt-like overlay are made by plain weave, but from yarns twisted in different directions according to the Z-S pattern. Therefore, they can be attributed to broadcloth. One sample is made of medium yarn, the other one from yarn of group 3 attributed to thick yarn. Fabrics of grades III and IV were used for clothing. The findings also include textiles made of zero-twist silk (silk fabric, spun threads, hand woven silk cord) and fabrics of plant origin (cotton?). Thus, fragments of clothes from the above-mentioned burial grounds are represented by various materials. The textiles are based on two fabrication technologies: woven and nonwoven. In addition to woolen textiles, the findings include textiles made of non-woven silk (silk fabric, spun threads, silk cord) and fabrics of plant origin (cotton?). The analyzed fabrics are supposed to have been imported. Wool textiles are likely to have been delivered from the most developed textile manufacturing centers in the European part of Russia. Silk and plant textiles are likely to be of oriental origin (China or Central Asia). It is noteworthy that twill-woven fabrics have not been found in the monuments under study. The comparative technological analysis of these textiles against fabrics of the 16th-17th centuries from the Tomsk-Narym Ob region and the Keti river shows that there are similar fabrics among them.