| Summary: | ### Author: Marc Pezerat (marc.pezerat@univ-lr.fr or pezeratm@gmail.com) Date: 19/01/2022 Purpose: This repository provides the field observations presented in the paper referred below Reference: Pezerat, M., Bertin, X., Martins, K. and Lavaud, L. (2022) Cross-shore distribution of the wave-induced circulation over a dissipative beach under storm wave conditions. Submitted to Journal of Geophysical Research-Ocean ### * The directory Obs includes : (1) Wave bulk parameters, computed as described in the paperfor the 7 sensors used in this study (.dat files) : the offshore AWAC and ADCP 600 kHz, the intertidal ADCP2MHz, PT2, PT3, ADV and PT5. For the three ADCP and the ADV, the average velocity measurements within the fixed wave cell of both horizontal components of the current in the ENU frame are provided ("uwcell" and "vwcell"). The field "wdepth" corresponds to the water depth above the seabed (i.e. corrected from sensor's elevation). The fields "fmin" and "fc" are the boundaries for the wave energy frequency spectra integration performed to compute the wave bulk parameters. (2) The vertical velocity profiles of the three components of the current in the ENU frame (u,v,w and hv, which corresponds to the norm of the horizonal current) for the three ADCP, provided in netCDF files in which the coordinate "z" corresponds to the height above the seabed. * The file sensors_loc.dat gathers the coordinates and the elevation above the seabed of each sensor. * The file "SaintTrojan_bathy_topo_ST2021.gr3" corresponds to the grid with the bathymetry used for this study in a format compliant with SCHISM-WWM. * The file "ww3.bnds_SaintTrojan_0.2d_ZWND14m_20210110_20210301_spec.nc" contains wave energy spectra issued from a North Atlantic application of Wavewatch III model that are used to force WWM at the offshore boundary.
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