Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing
<jats:p>Bi-directional wave climates often drive beach rotation, increasing erosional risk at semi-sheltered locations. Identification of rotation and forcing mechanisms is vital to future coastal defence. In this study, regional investigation of modelled wave data revealed strong bi-direction...
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Online Access: | http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/14403 https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 |
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ftunivplympearl:oai:pearl.plymouth.ac.uk:10026.1/14403 2024-06-09T07:48:15+00:00 Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing Wiggins, M Scott, T Masselink, G Russell, P Valiente, NG 2019-04-23 116-116 application/pdf http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/14403 https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 en eng MDPI ISSN:2077-1312 E-ISSN:2077-1312 2077-1312 ARTN 116 http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/14403 doi:10.3390/jmse7040116 2019-11-27 Not known beach rotation bi-directional waves NAO WEPA erosion storm winter atmospheric oscillations climate indices journal-article Article 2019 ftunivplympearl https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 2024-05-14T23:44:04Z <jats:p>Bi-directional wave climates often drive beach rotation, increasing erosional risk at semi-sheltered locations. Identification of rotation and forcing mechanisms is vital to future coastal defence. In this study, regional investigation of modelled wave data revealed strong bi-directionality between dominant south-westerly and sub-dominant easterly waves for 14 offshore locations along the length of the south coast of England, U.K. South-westerly wave power was well correlated to positive phases of the West Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA), whilst easterly wave power was well correlated with negative phases of the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO). Additionally, decadal records of beach morphological change and associated wave forcing, were investigated for 22 coastal sites across the same region. Significant rotational behaviour was identified at 11 sites, leading to the creation of a rotation index. Beach rotation was attributed to shoreline angle, with the strongest rotation occurring at south-east-facing beaches, with high obliquity to dominant south-westerly waves. The beach rotation index was well correlated with the normalized balance of wave power from opposing south-westerly and easterly directions. Direct correlations between beach rotation and WEPA at two sites showed that future forecasts of atmospheric indices may allow prediction of rotational beach state, at seasonal scales.</jats:p> Article in Journal/Newspaper North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation PEARL (Plymouth Electronic Archiv & ResearchLibrary, Plymouth University) Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7 4 116 |
institution |
Open Polar |
collection |
PEARL (Plymouth Electronic Archiv & ResearchLibrary, Plymouth University) |
op_collection_id |
ftunivplympearl |
language |
English |
topic |
beach rotation bi-directional waves NAO WEPA erosion storm winter atmospheric oscillations climate indices |
spellingShingle |
beach rotation bi-directional waves NAO WEPA erosion storm winter atmospheric oscillations climate indices Wiggins, M Scott, T Masselink, G Russell, P Valiente, NG Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
topic_facet |
beach rotation bi-directional waves NAO WEPA erosion storm winter atmospheric oscillations climate indices |
description |
<jats:p>Bi-directional wave climates often drive beach rotation, increasing erosional risk at semi-sheltered locations. Identification of rotation and forcing mechanisms is vital to future coastal defence. In this study, regional investigation of modelled wave data revealed strong bi-directionality between dominant south-westerly and sub-dominant easterly waves for 14 offshore locations along the length of the south coast of England, U.K. South-westerly wave power was well correlated to positive phases of the West Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA), whilst easterly wave power was well correlated with negative phases of the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO). Additionally, decadal records of beach morphological change and associated wave forcing, were investigated for 22 coastal sites across the same region. Significant rotational behaviour was identified at 11 sites, leading to the creation of a rotation index. Beach rotation was attributed to shoreline angle, with the strongest rotation occurring at south-east-facing beaches, with high obliquity to dominant south-westerly waves. The beach rotation index was well correlated with the normalized balance of wave power from opposing south-westerly and easterly directions. Direct correlations between beach rotation and WEPA at two sites showed that future forecasts of atmospheric indices may allow prediction of rotational beach state, at seasonal scales.</jats:p> |
format |
Article in Journal/Newspaper |
author |
Wiggins, M Scott, T Masselink, G Russell, P Valiente, NG |
author_facet |
Wiggins, M Scott, T Masselink, G Russell, P Valiente, NG |
author_sort |
Wiggins, M |
title |
Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
title_short |
Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
title_full |
Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
title_fullStr |
Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
title_full_unstemmed |
Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
title_sort |
regionally-coherent embayment rotation: behavioural response to bi-directional waves and atmospheric forcing |
publisher |
MDPI |
publishDate |
2019 |
url |
http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/14403 https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 |
genre |
North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation |
genre_facet |
North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation |
op_relation |
ISSN:2077-1312 E-ISSN:2077-1312 2077-1312 ARTN 116 http://hdl.handle.net/10026.1/14403 doi:10.3390/jmse7040116 |
op_rights |
2019-11-27 Not known |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 |
container_title |
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
container_volume |
7 |
container_issue |
4 |
container_start_page |
116 |
_version_ |
1801379903815286784 |