Abstracts of Papers: Textile Society of America 16th Biennial Symposium

• Format: Text
• Language: unknown
• Published: DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln 2018
• Subjects: Art and Design; Art and Materials Conservation; Art Practice; Arts and Humanities; Fashion Design; Fiber; Textile; and Weaving Arts; Fine Arts; Museum Studies; Aldrich; Argentina; Åse; Aymara; Barrett; Bradshaw; Buttons; Canada; Cape Dorset; Cara; Clifford; Denise; Fairbanks; Ferreira; Gaby; Gardner; Gertrude; Greenlee; Hess; Heywood; Indian; Kathleen; Koskela; Lakshmi; Leininger; Lynch; Mace; Markova; Mayan; Nunavut; Pacific; Payne; Pickett; Pollard; Portillo; Quinton; Rowe; Silvia; Tristan; Valentine; Williamson; Yara; Zimmerman; inuit; sami; tlingit
• Online Access: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/1130; https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2132&context=tsaconf

Abstracts of 175 papers: Monisha Ahmed — The Kashmir / Cashmere Shawl – Tradition and Transformation Philis Alvic — Eliza Calvert Hall, The Handwoven Coverlet Book, and Collecting Coverlet Patterns in Early Twentieth Century Appalachia Sarah Amarica — Global Threads: Histories of Labour and Cloth in Ann Hamilton and Ibrahim Mahama’s Installation Art Lynne Anderson — Schoolgirl Embroideries: Integrating Indigenous Motifs, Materials, and Text Jennifer Angus — Education through Co-Design Margaret Olugbemisola Areo and Adebowale Biodun Areo — Egungun: Concept, Content and the Dynamic Contextual Manifestations of Yoruba Ancestors Masquerade Alison Ariss — Wrapped in Wool: Coast Salish wool weaving, Vancouver, and unceded territory Joanne Arnett — The Best Dressed Nun in the Room: A Capsule Wardrobe Project Janice Arnold — FELT: The Fabric of Community: 3 Stories of Community Building with Traditional Feltmaking Nicole Asselin — Making and Unmaking: Reimagining Textile Waste Through Biodesign Mary Babcock — Notions from the Pacific: Embracing entanglement Suzi Ballenger and Charlotte Hamlin — Yours, mine and ours. Annin Barrett — Timberline Lodge Textiles: Creating a Sense of Place Kathryn Berenson — Italian Bedfellows: Tristan, Solomon and "Bestes" Kathryn Berenson — A Medieval Political Hanging Alice Bernardo — Reconnecting Local Resources Magali Berthon — Artisans Angkor: Reviving Cambodian Silk Crafts under French Patronage Vandana Bhandari — Namvali Textiles of Rajasthan: Culture and Counterculture Katharine Bissett-Johnson — Co-creating Craft; Australian Designers meet Artisans in India Ines Bogensperger — Hellenization and Cultural Change: Textiles in Documentary Papyri from Greco-Roman Egypt Darden Bradshaw — Contemporary Chilean Arpilleras: Writing Visual Culture Stephanie Bunn — Basketry and the ‘glocal’. Grass, straw, heather, rattan, - what’s in a ‘local’ Scottish basket? Jennifer Byram — Reawakening Choctaw Traditional Textiles Dominique Cardon — Ancient Colours for Today’s Colorists and Designers Robin Caudell — Common Sense & Pin Money: The Material Culture and Legacy of Lula Annie Butler 1909-2009 Debbie Chachra and Caitrin Lynch — Behind the Curtain: Textile Provenance as a New Frontier in Ethical Apparel Angela Clarke — Women’s Work: The Art and Ritual of Textile Production in the Italian Community of Vancouver Ruth Clifford — Balancing local tradition and global influences: design and business education for handloom weavers in India Sarah Clugage — The Tent-Dweller: Visual Markers of Migration in Art Sarah Confer — Dynamic Cultural Preservation in Peru: global influences and local impacts on traditional Andean weaving Geraldine Craig — Ia and Tcheu: locating a contemporary Hmong aesthetic Yasmine Dabbous — Protection and empowerment: The dual role textiles play among the Syrian refugee community in Sonja Dahl — Whitework: The Cloth and the Call to Action MJ Daines — Collecting and Constructing: Anni Albers' migrant status and her interaction with indigenous textiles Jennifer Ling Datchuk and Anna Walker — The Personal is Political: Exploring Constructions of Identity in the Work of Jennifer Ling Datchuk Maggie D’Aversa — Resisting the Conversion of Silk Sutures to Synthetic Products in China. Is it cultural? Silvia Dolz — Fish in the desert - The North African textile tradition between indigenous identity and exogenous change in meaning Kelsie Doty — #NATURALDYE Penny Dransart — Mind’s Eye and Embodied Weaving: simultaneous contrasts of hue in Isluga textiles, northern Chile Eiluned Edwards — Handmade in India: re-branding Kachchhi block prints for global markets Eiluned Edwards — Samples from Sanganer: block prints commissioned for the Albert Hall Museum, Jaipur, India in 1899. Deborah Emmett — The embroidery artisans of the Kashmir Valley: cultural imports and exports from historical and contemporary perspectives. Åse Eriksen — The techniques of samitum, based on a reconstruction. — Joseph Fabish — Andamarcan Textiles Today: The Merging of Cultures Marianne Fairbanks — Weaving Lab: Public Production and Speculation Sarah Fee — The Origins of Chintz at the ROM: Collecting in the Name of Commerce Nancy Feldman — Shipibo Textiles 2010-2018: Artists of the Amazon Culturally Engaged, Deep Local to Pan Global Maria João Ferreira — Textiles, Trade and Taste Trish FitzSimons and Madelyn Shaw — The Fabric of War – The Global Trade in Australasian Wool from Crimea to Korea Trish FitzSimons and Madelyn Shaw — The Fabric of War – Wool and Local Land Wars in a Global Context Cynthia Fowler — Irish Identity in a Global Market: The Embroidered Landscapes of Lily Yeats Judy Frater — Closing the Power Gap Through Internet Technology: The Artisan View Maria Wronska-Friend — Batik of Java: global inspiration Paula Frisch — A Quilt for Now: My Patchwork Exploration of Safety, Threat & the Decisions We Make Dai Fujiwara — Color Hunting Julia Galliker — Ancient Textiles/Modern Hands: ‘Crowdsourcing’ Experimental Archaeology Through the Spiral Textile Project (spiraltextile.com) Medha Bhatt Ganguly — From the “Economic” to the “Symbolic”: The Journey of Trade beads from the Markets of Ujiji to the Dowries in Bead-work of Saurashtra — Xia Gao — Interweaving-Making Place and Place Making Surabi Ghosh — Carrying Cloth: Materials, Migration and Mediated Identity Denise Green — Mapping Regalia in Hupacasath Territory Rachel Green — Loss and Renewal: Chaguar Clothing of the Wichí of Argentina Gaby Greenlee — A Virgin Martyr in Indigenous Garb? A Curious Case of Andean Ancestry and Memorial Rites Recalled on a Christian Body Jane Groufsky — A Local Motif; Use of kōwhaiwhai patterns in printed textiles Louise Hamby — Milingimbi Artists Engagement with Koskela Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa — Looking at Coast Salish Textiles: Threads, twist and fibre Michele Hardy and Joanne Schmidt — Radical Access: Textiles and Museums Peter Harris and Showkat Ahmad Khan — Kashmir shawl weaving demonstration Joan Hart — The Deep Origins of Kashmir Shawls, Their Broad Dissemination and Changing Meaning Peggy Hart — Satinet, 1790-1860 Jana Hawley — Local Trash, Global Treasures Erica Hess — Developing Critical Understanding Through Design Anna Heywood-Jones — Tinctorial Cartographies: Plant, Dye and Place Donna Ho — Pajamas as (Banned) Streetwear in Shanghai: Local meets Global Jen Hoover — Shepherds and Shawls: Making Place in the Western Himalayas Laurel Horton — Dresden Embroidery in Early Kentucky Counterpanes Sylvia Houghteling — Kalamkari and Qalamkār-e Fārsī: A Continuous History of Cloth Connections between India and Iran I-Fen Huang — Local Crafts, World Exposition, and the Transformation of Embroidery in Early Twentieth Century China Jennifer Huang — Weaving Identities: Researching Atayal Textiles Barb Hunt — “Buttons all galore” – mother-of-pearl buttons as communication system Catherine Hunter — Indian Basketry in Yosemite Valley, 19th - 20th Century: Gertrude 'Cosie' Hutchings Mills, Tourists, and the National Park Service WhiteFeather Hunter — Biomateria; Biotextile Craft WhiteFeather Hunter — blóm + blóð Adil Iqbal — Cultivating Crafts: Weaving together Scottish and Pakistani narratives Adil Iqbal — Kasb-e-Hunar (Skilled Enclave) André Jackson — Self Identification Through Intersectionality: Turning Inward to Center, Normalize and Validate My Existence Carol James — Sprang Bonnets from Late Antique Egypt: Producer Knowledge and Exchange Through Experimental Reconstruction Donald Clay Johnson — Lucy Truman Aldrich, rebel collector of textiles Jess Jones — Lost Weavings of Atlanta: Mapping Historic Textile Works, Remnants, and Removals in Atlanta GA Lakshmi Kadambi — The Lambani Skirt Etsuko KageyamaNewly identified Iranian motif of silk textiles in Shōsōin storehouse in Japan Noelle Kahanu and Claire Regnault — He Makana Aloha: Co-curating memory, legacy and indigenous identity through the iconic Aloha Shirt Barbara Kahl — Using Invasive Species for Fiber and Dyeing: Controlling Weeds and Controlling Materials Costs for Artisans Elizabeth Kalbfleisch — Celebration or Craftsploitation? Cultural Diplomacy, Marketing and Coast Salish Knitting Jasleen Kandhari — The Kenyan Kanga Textile: Expressions of Swahili Identity and Cross Cultural Influences from India Miwa Kanetani and Ayami Nakatani — Unweaving textiles, disentangling ropes: Exploration of “lineware” as an analytical category Anjali Karolia and Jyoti Navlani — Balotra: the transforming journey for urban demands Anna Rose Keefe — Re-fashioning Newport: Reuse of Textiles during the Gilded Age Minjee Kim — Korean Patchwork Textiles: From Boudoir Craft to Global Collection Desiree Koslin — Pathfinding Restart: crossing tradition, activism and contemporaneity in Sami Art Sumru Krody — Occam’s Razor: Origins of a Classical Turkish Carpet Design Ashley Kubley — Lost Arts Found: Henequen Artisanship of the Modern Maya Ashley Kubley — Coarse Craft: An Investigation into the Re-emergence of Traditional Mayan Fiber Craftsmanship and Neo-Artisanal Culture in the Post-industrial Landscape of Yucatan Sabena Kull — A Seventeenth-century South American Hanging and Valance: Embroidering Imperial Power and Local Identity in Colonial Peru Eleanor Laughlin — The Beata’s Rebozo: A Garment of Religious Devotion and Freedom Margaret Leininger — India to Appalachia: How Cottage Industries Preserve Textile Heritage Beverly Lemire — Native American Embroidered Goods in the 19th-Century British Empire: Fashioning New Meanings Precious Lovell — Reinterpreting European Cloth Through Afro-Brazilian Culture Shannon Ludington — Embroidering Paradise: Suzanis As a Place of Creative Agency and Acculturation For Uzbek Women in 19th Century Bukhara Kristin Scheel — The meaning and purpose of ancient designs in today’s fashion designs – appropriation and power? Suzanne MacAulay — Hapsburg Eagles and Rattlesnakes: Localizing Embroidery Motifs on the Spanish Colonial Frontier Zone Dakota Mace — Woven Juxtaposition: Discourse on The Appropriation of Native American Design & Symbolism Hinda Mandell — Frederick and Anna Douglass's Parking Lot Hinda Mandell — Frederick and Anna Douglass's Parking Lot: Yarn as Commemorative Tool Fighting Urban Renewal Gary Markle — Wear/Where Do We Belong? Ivana Markova — Silybum Marianum Seed Fibers: A Comparison Analysis of Morphological Characteristics Paula Matthusen and Olivia Valentine — between systems and grounds: a generative, sonic textile construction and installation system Nina Maturu — Sustaining Weaver’s Craft and Livelihoods in Andhra Pradesh, India Tara Mayer — Displaced Objects of Empire in the Museum of Vancouver: The 1930s Detritus of Imperial Travel Louise Mitchell — Mary Jane Hannaford (1840- 1930) and her applique quilts Nazanin Hedayat Munroe — Wrapped Up: Talismanic Garments in Early Modern Islamic Culture Addison Nace — Weaving Authenticity: Artesanías or the Art of the Textile in Chiapas, Mexico Vanessa Nicholas — Recovering Canadian Ecology in a Quilt of Maple Leaves Gabriela Nirino — Blue is Never Just a Color Sara Oka — No Sweat Keiko Okamoto — The Modern Development of Kyoto Textiles - The Processes and Designs of Hand-Painted Yūzen Dyeing Between 1950 and the Present Sumiyo Okumura — Silk Velvets Identified as Byzantine: Were Silk Velvets Woven under the Byzantine Empire? Emily Pascoe — Local Wear Susan Pavel — du'kWXaXa'?t3w3l Sacred Change for Each Other Susan Pavel — Gifts from The Creator Jessica Payne — Shetland Lace Knitting: transformation through relocation Elena Phipps — Weaving Brilliance in Bolivian Aymara Textile Traditions Barbara Setsu Pickett — Rahul Jain's Velvet Drawloom: An Example of Deep Local to Pan Global — Janet Pollock — Ties that Bind: Finding Meaning in the Making of Sacred Textiles María Dávila and Eduardo Portillo — From Silk to Venezuelan fibers Jane Przybysz — Place-Based Post-WWII Polish Textiles Sarah Quinton — Home and Away: Seeing through textiles as a curatorial practice Bibiana Ramonda — Carpets in Cordoba, Argentina. Between cross-culturalization and a local expression Anna Richard and Roxane Shaughnessy — The Untold Story of Inuit Printed Fabric Experiments from Cape Dorset, Nunavut, Canada Vivienne Richmond — Stitching empire, shaping minds: the colonial dissemination of British needlework instruction Nancy Rosoff — Rayed Head Imagery on Nasca, Sihuas, and Pucara Textiles during the Early Intermediate Period Annie Ross — Indigenous Sustainable Technologies and Ecosystems: Weave it Back Together Kathryn RoussoContaining Tradition, Embracing Change: Weaving Together Plant Materials in northern Latin America. Ann Pollard Rowe — The Cuzco Woman's Shawl MacKenzie Moon Ryan — Swahili Coastal Chic: Kanga Cloth in Photograph and Swatch ca. 1900 Stephanie Sabo — Conflict Zones: Cultural Exchange and Labor Power in the Production of Contemporary Art Textile Works Yara Saegh and Anne Bissonette — The Sultan’s Carpet: An Investigation of an Ottoman Cairene Textile in the Collection of the Nickle Galleries Ann Salmonson — The Master’s Inheritance: Passing On Wuhan Han Embroidery Rajarshi Sangupta — An Artisanal History of Kalam? Joan Saverino — Ozaturu: A Calabrian Bed Covering, Local Embodiment, and Women’s Expressivity Alice Scherer — From Basket Making to Beadworking: Loose-Warp Woven Beadwork of the Tlingit, Wasco, and Pit River Indians Vera Sheehan — N’Bamakwana Lasawaw8ganek N’Babajigwezijik, “We Wear the Clothing of Our Ancestors” Angela Sheng — The Chinese Contribution to the Samitum? Revisiting the so-called “Zandaniji” and Other Finds in Central Asia and China, 5th - 10th Century Rachel Silberstein — Wearing Other People’s Clothes: The Second-Hand Clothes Seller in Turn of the Century China Juliana Silva — Living Organisms for Living Spaces Maya Stanfield-MazziThe Passion Cloths of Chachapoyas, Peru: Eternal Life Expressed in a Local Idiom Lila Stone — The Radical Fiber Arts Practices of The Yarn Mission: A Case Study Amy Swanson — Kyrgyzstan's 'Deep Local' Fiber and Textile Traditions at a Crossroads Lee Talbot — Embroidery and the Opening of Korea in the Late 19th /Early 20th Century — Dr. Angharad Thomas — Sanquhar gloves: an exemplification of Deep Local to Pan Global? Diana Thomas — The Wagga Quilt in History and Fiction Kelly Thompson — Weaving a Turn: translating data, material and space. Natasha Thoreson — Revealing a New Tradition: Reevaluating British Printed Textiles of the 1970s Cara Tremain — Amid Bodies and Spaces: Textiles in the Ancient Maya World Virginia Gardner Troy — Promoting American Textiles Abroad at Midcentury Kendra Van CleaveThe Lévite Dress: Untangling the Cultural Influences of Eighteenth-Century French Fashion Lisa VandenBerghe — The “Deep Local” of Domestic Needlework in Early Modern England Kathleen Vaughan — The Urban River as Entity and Imaginary: Textile mapping and storytelling of the St. Lawrence shoreline at Pointe-St-Charles Marianne Vedeler — The Social Fabric of Silk in the Age of the Vikings Carol Ventura — Tapestry Crochet in the Americas, Europe, Africa, and the Middle East: Tradition and Innovation Mercy Wanduara — Looking at the Past and Current Status of Kenya’s textiles and clothing Wendy Weiss — Mashru Redux: from the Calico Museum in Ahmedabad to a Loom in the Great Plains Eileen Wheeler — Manipulating the Threads of Culture: Contemporary Shibori Artist Yvonne Wakabayashi Liz Williamson — Local colour: the search for a plant dye industry in Australia Arielle Winnik — Understanding Clothing in Heaven: Local Maronite Burial Practices in the 13th century CE Jacqueline Witkowski — Threading together politics and poetics in Cecilia Vicuña’s fibre art Stephanie Wood — Mesoamerican (Text)iles: Persistence of Indigenous Iconography in Women’s Weaving Masako Yoshida — The Global Influence of China and Europe on Local Japanese Tapestries from the 19th to early 20th Centuries Callen Zimmerman — Getting Located: Queer Semiotics in Dress