Modelling the contribution of wind waves to Cap Ferret's updrift erosion
International audience Wind waves breaking at an angle with the shoreline force the drifting of littoral sediments, which is known for contributing to the formation and growth of barrier spits. Intriguingly, increased rates of longshore wave power have also been associated with the erosion of some b...
Published in: | Coastal Engineering |
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Main Authors: | , , , , , , |
Other Authors: | , , , , , , , |
Format: | Article in Journal/Newspaper |
Language: | English |
Published: |
HAL CCSD
2022
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Subjects: | |
Online Access: | https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439 https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439/document https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439/file/Nahon%20et%20al_CENG2022_accepted.pdf https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104063 |
id |
ftunivnantes:oai:HAL:hal-03461439v1 |
---|---|
record_format |
openpolar |
institution |
Open Polar |
collection |
Université de Nantes: HAL-UNIV-NANTES |
op_collection_id |
ftunivnantes |
language |
English |
topic |
Sandspit Tidal inlet Sediment transport Wave power NAO SCHISM [SDU.ENVI]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Continental interfaces environment [SDU.OCEAN]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Ocean Atmosphere |
spellingShingle |
Sandspit Tidal inlet Sediment transport Wave power NAO SCHISM [SDU.ENVI]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Continental interfaces environment [SDU.OCEAN]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Ocean Atmosphere Nahon, Alphonse Idier, Déborah Bertin, X. Guérin, Thomas Marieu, Vincent Sénéchal, Nadia Mugica, Julie Modelling the contribution of wind waves to Cap Ferret's updrift erosion |
topic_facet |
Sandspit Tidal inlet Sediment transport Wave power NAO SCHISM [SDU.ENVI]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Continental interfaces environment [SDU.OCEAN]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Ocean Atmosphere |
description |
International audience Wind waves breaking at an angle with the shoreline force the drifting of littoral sediments, which is known for contributing to the formation and growth of barrier spits. Intriguingly, increased rates of longshore wave power have also been associated with the erosion of some barrier spits on the updrift margin of tidal inlets. Therefore, a numerical experiment was designed and is presented here, which investigates the possible links between the longshore wave power and the shortening of these elongated coastal barriers. Based on a process-based model, the experiment provides new insights into the forces at play in the redistribution of sediments between a sandspit and its adjacent inlet, respectively the Cap Ferret and the Bay of Arcachon's tidal inlet, in SW France. More particularly, model scenarios were defined that show how combined waves and tide create gradients of residual sediment transport responsible for a sediment deficit at the spit – inlet boundary. The deficit was also found to deepen with increasing longshore wave energy, as if the transfer of sediment from the spit to inlet shoals was accelerated. This physically explains the previously observed retreat of the spit's distal end during periods dominated by the positive phase of North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) in winter. Indeed, according to model results, higher and/or more oblique waves associated with the positive phase of the NAO are expected to increase the transfer and storage of the drifting sediments to and by the inlet shoals, and this at the expense of the spit. While these conclusions remain valid, we noticed that the sensitivity of model results to the bottom friction enhanced the importance of accurately representing the spatio-temporal distribution of bed roughness when investigating the morphodynamic interactions between real-world tidal inlets and their margins. |
author2 |
UMR 5805 Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux (EPOC) Observatoire aquitain des sciences de l'univers (OASU) Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1 (UB)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1 (UB)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-École pratique des hautes études (EPHE) Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières (BRGM) (BRGM) LIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés (LIENSs) La Rochelle Université (ULR)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) Benoit Waeles Consultant Genie Cotier |
format |
Article in Journal/Newspaper |
author |
Nahon, Alphonse Idier, Déborah Bertin, X. Guérin, Thomas Marieu, Vincent Sénéchal, Nadia Mugica, Julie |
author_facet |
Nahon, Alphonse Idier, Déborah Bertin, X. Guérin, Thomas Marieu, Vincent Sénéchal, Nadia Mugica, Julie |
author_sort |
Nahon, Alphonse |
title |
Modelling the contribution of wind waves to Cap Ferret's updrift erosion |
title_short |
Modelling the contribution of wind waves to Cap Ferret's updrift erosion |
title_full |
Modelling the contribution of wind waves to Cap Ferret's updrift erosion |
title_fullStr |
Modelling the contribution of wind waves to Cap Ferret's updrift erosion |
title_full_unstemmed |
Modelling the contribution of wind waves to Cap Ferret's updrift erosion |
title_sort |
modelling the contribution of wind waves to cap ferret's updrift erosion |
publisher |
HAL CCSD |
publishDate |
2022 |
url |
https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439 https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439/document https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439/file/Nahon%20et%20al_CENG2022_accepted.pdf https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104063 |
long_lat |
ENVELOPE(170.217,170.217,-71.300,-71.300) ENVELOPE(-131.827,-131.827,53.244,53.244) |
geographic |
The Spit Sandspit |
geographic_facet |
The Spit Sandspit |
genre |
North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation |
genre_facet |
North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation |
op_source |
ISSN: 0378-3839 Coastal Engineering https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439 Coastal Engineering, 2022, 172, pp.104063. ⟨10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104063⟩ |
op_relation |
info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/doi/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104063 hal-03461439 https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439 https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439/document https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439/file/Nahon%20et%20al_CENG2022_accepted.pdf doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104063 |
op_rights |
info:eu-repo/semantics/OpenAccess |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104063 |
container_title |
Coastal Engineering |
container_volume |
172 |
container_start_page |
104063 |
_version_ |
1766135761527111680 |
spelling |
ftunivnantes:oai:HAL:hal-03461439v1 2023-05-15T17:36:19+02:00 Modelling the contribution of wind waves to Cap Ferret's updrift erosion Nahon, Alphonse Idier, Déborah Bertin, X. Guérin, Thomas Marieu, Vincent Sénéchal, Nadia Mugica, Julie UMR 5805 Environnements et Paléoenvironnements Océaniques et Continentaux (EPOC) Observatoire aquitain des sciences de l'univers (OASU) Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1 (UB)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1 (UB)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-École pratique des hautes études (EPHE) Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières (BRGM) (BRGM) LIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés (LIENSs) La Rochelle Université (ULR)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) Benoit Waeles Consultant Genie Cotier 2022 https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439 https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439/document https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439/file/Nahon%20et%20al_CENG2022_accepted.pdf https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104063 en eng HAL CCSD Elsevier info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/doi/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104063 hal-03461439 https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439 https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439/document https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439/file/Nahon%20et%20al_CENG2022_accepted.pdf doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104063 info:eu-repo/semantics/OpenAccess ISSN: 0378-3839 Coastal Engineering https://hal-univ-rochelle.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03461439 Coastal Engineering, 2022, 172, pp.104063. ⟨10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104063⟩ Sandspit Tidal inlet Sediment transport Wave power NAO SCHISM [SDU.ENVI]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Continental interfaces environment [SDU.OCEAN]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Ocean Atmosphere info:eu-repo/semantics/article Journal articles 2022 ftunivnantes https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104063 2023-03-08T02:21:36Z International audience Wind waves breaking at an angle with the shoreline force the drifting of littoral sediments, which is known for contributing to the formation and growth of barrier spits. Intriguingly, increased rates of longshore wave power have also been associated with the erosion of some barrier spits on the updrift margin of tidal inlets. Therefore, a numerical experiment was designed and is presented here, which investigates the possible links between the longshore wave power and the shortening of these elongated coastal barriers. Based on a process-based model, the experiment provides new insights into the forces at play in the redistribution of sediments between a sandspit and its adjacent inlet, respectively the Cap Ferret and the Bay of Arcachon's tidal inlet, in SW France. More particularly, model scenarios were defined that show how combined waves and tide create gradients of residual sediment transport responsible for a sediment deficit at the spit – inlet boundary. The deficit was also found to deepen with increasing longshore wave energy, as if the transfer of sediment from the spit to inlet shoals was accelerated. This physically explains the previously observed retreat of the spit's distal end during periods dominated by the positive phase of North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) in winter. Indeed, according to model results, higher and/or more oblique waves associated with the positive phase of the NAO are expected to increase the transfer and storage of the drifting sediments to and by the inlet shoals, and this at the expense of the spit. While these conclusions remain valid, we noticed that the sensitivity of model results to the bottom friction enhanced the importance of accurately representing the spatio-temporal distribution of bed roughness when investigating the morphodynamic interactions between real-world tidal inlets and their margins. Article in Journal/Newspaper North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation Université de Nantes: HAL-UNIV-NANTES The Spit ENVELOPE(170.217,170.217,-71.300,-71.300) Sandspit ENVELOPE(-131.827,-131.827,53.244,53.244) Coastal Engineering 172 104063 |