Stances in mountaineering and climbing activities: an analysis and a proposal for an improved equalized anchoring
In climbing on a long rock or ice route, mountaineers are tied by means of a rope. The climb is subdivided into “pitches” by “stances”, i.e. places where anchoring points are available for security and for the mutual belay of the partners. In this paper, the problem of setting up a stance by connect...
Published in: | Sports Engineering |
---|---|
Main Authors: | , , , |
Other Authors: | |
Format: | Article in Journal/Newspaper |
Language: | English |
Published: |
2015
|
Subjects: | |
Online Access: | http://hdl.handle.net/11585/522749 https://doi.org/10.1007/s12283-015-0177-3 |
id |
ftunibolognairis:oai:cris.unibo.it:11585/522749 |
---|---|
record_format |
openpolar |
spelling |
ftunibolognairis:oai:cris.unibo.it:11585/522749 2024-02-11T10:05:40+01:00 Stances in mountaineering and climbing activities: an analysis and a proposal for an improved equalized anchoring Bedogni, Vittorio Bressan, Giuliano Zanantoni, Carlo MELCHIORRI, CLAUDIO Bedogni, Vittorio Bressan, Giuliano Melchiorri, Claudio Zanantoni, Carlo 2015 STAMPA http://hdl.handle.net/11585/522749 https://doi.org/10.1007/s12283-015-0177-3 eng eng info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/wos/WOS:000212119600002 volume:18 firstpage:203 lastpage:215 numberofpages:13 journal:SPORTS ENGINEERING http://hdl.handle.net/11585/522749 doi:10.1007/s12283-015-0177-3 info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/scopus/2-s2.0-84947024809 Mountaineering Stances Anchor point connection info:eu-repo/semantics/article 2015 ftunibolognairis https://doi.org/10.1007/s12283-015-0177-3 2024-01-17T17:45:25Z In climbing on a long rock or ice route, mountaineers are tied by means of a rope. The climb is subdivided into “pitches” by “stances”, i.e. places where anchoring points are available for security and for the mutual belay of the partners. In this paper, the problem of setting up a stance by connecting two or more anchor points is addressed. The methods for achieving the highest safety in this connection are discussed. In past work, this type of analysis is generally performed for cases where the free fall line is aligned to the stance midpoint; this paper shows that the best understanding of the phenomena is achieved by investigating falls with an “offset” from the stance midpoint. The two most important cases of the current best practice are compared: the mobile and the fixed connection of the anchor points. The analysis was conducted by means of experimental and analytical investigations, to a detail that was never achieved before. The assessments are based on the dynamics of the events, not on static tests as reported in the majority of the literature. The comparison of the two practices of connection is the major task of the paper. It was conducted to such a detail as to allow the readers to form their judgement on the issue. An improved stance arrangement, which increases the stance reliability of 20 % still keeping an easy arrangement, is proposed. Article in Journal/Newspaper Long Rock IRIS Università degli Studi di Bologna (CRIS - Current Research Information System) Long Rock ENVELOPE(-61.198,-61.198,-62.689,-62.689) Anchor Point ENVELOPE(-56.815,-56.815,51.233,51.233) Sports Engineering 18 4 203 215 |
institution |
Open Polar |
collection |
IRIS Università degli Studi di Bologna (CRIS - Current Research Information System) |
op_collection_id |
ftunibolognairis |
language |
English |
topic |
Mountaineering Stances Anchor point connection |
spellingShingle |
Mountaineering Stances Anchor point connection Bedogni, Vittorio Bressan, Giuliano Zanantoni, Carlo MELCHIORRI, CLAUDIO Stances in mountaineering and climbing activities: an analysis and a proposal for an improved equalized anchoring |
topic_facet |
Mountaineering Stances Anchor point connection |
description |
In climbing on a long rock or ice route, mountaineers are tied by means of a rope. The climb is subdivided into “pitches” by “stances”, i.e. places where anchoring points are available for security and for the mutual belay of the partners. In this paper, the problem of setting up a stance by connecting two or more anchor points is addressed. The methods for achieving the highest safety in this connection are discussed. In past work, this type of analysis is generally performed for cases where the free fall line is aligned to the stance midpoint; this paper shows that the best understanding of the phenomena is achieved by investigating falls with an “offset” from the stance midpoint. The two most important cases of the current best practice are compared: the mobile and the fixed connection of the anchor points. The analysis was conducted by means of experimental and analytical investigations, to a detail that was never achieved before. The assessments are based on the dynamics of the events, not on static tests as reported in the majority of the literature. The comparison of the two practices of connection is the major task of the paper. It was conducted to such a detail as to allow the readers to form their judgement on the issue. An improved stance arrangement, which increases the stance reliability of 20 % still keeping an easy arrangement, is proposed. |
author2 |
Bedogni, Vittorio Bressan, Giuliano Melchiorri, Claudio Zanantoni, Carlo |
format |
Article in Journal/Newspaper |
author |
Bedogni, Vittorio Bressan, Giuliano Zanantoni, Carlo MELCHIORRI, CLAUDIO |
author_facet |
Bedogni, Vittorio Bressan, Giuliano Zanantoni, Carlo MELCHIORRI, CLAUDIO |
author_sort |
Bedogni, Vittorio |
title |
Stances in mountaineering and climbing activities: an analysis and a proposal for an improved equalized anchoring |
title_short |
Stances in mountaineering and climbing activities: an analysis and a proposal for an improved equalized anchoring |
title_full |
Stances in mountaineering and climbing activities: an analysis and a proposal for an improved equalized anchoring |
title_fullStr |
Stances in mountaineering and climbing activities: an analysis and a proposal for an improved equalized anchoring |
title_full_unstemmed |
Stances in mountaineering and climbing activities: an analysis and a proposal for an improved equalized anchoring |
title_sort |
stances in mountaineering and climbing activities: an analysis and a proposal for an improved equalized anchoring |
publishDate |
2015 |
url |
http://hdl.handle.net/11585/522749 https://doi.org/10.1007/s12283-015-0177-3 |
long_lat |
ENVELOPE(-61.198,-61.198,-62.689,-62.689) ENVELOPE(-56.815,-56.815,51.233,51.233) |
geographic |
Long Rock Anchor Point |
geographic_facet |
Long Rock Anchor Point |
genre |
Long Rock |
genre_facet |
Long Rock |
op_relation |
info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/wos/WOS:000212119600002 volume:18 firstpage:203 lastpage:215 numberofpages:13 journal:SPORTS ENGINEERING http://hdl.handle.net/11585/522749 doi:10.1007/s12283-015-0177-3 info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/scopus/2-s2.0-84947024809 |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.1007/s12283-015-0177-3 |
container_title |
Sports Engineering |
container_volume |
18 |
container_issue |
4 |
container_start_page |
203 |
op_container_end_page |
215 |
_version_ |
1790602793441034240 |