Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach
A validated one-dimensional Boussinesq-non-linear shallow water equations numerical model was used to investigate the interaction of solitary waves with beaches. The numerical model requires two adjustable parameters: the bed friction coefficient and a wave breaking parameter. Excellent agreement wa...
Published in: | Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Maritime Engineering |
---|---|
Main Authors: | , , , , |
Format: | Article in Journal/Newspaper |
Language: | English |
Published: |
2006
|
Subjects: | |
Online Access: | https://research.manchester.ac.uk/en/publications/a06983ea-1447-4c61-97e8-63ef645978f5 https://doi.org/10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97 http://www.atypon-link.com/TELF/doi/pdf/10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97 |
id |
ftumanchesterpub:oai:pure.atira.dk:publications/a06983ea-1447-4c61-97e8-63ef645978f5 |
---|---|
record_format |
openpolar |
spelling |
ftumanchesterpub:oai:pure.atira.dk:publications/a06983ea-1447-4c61-97e8-63ef645978f5 2023-11-12T04:20:01+01:00 Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach Borthwick, Alistair G L Ford, Michael Weston, Benjamin P. Taylor, Paul H. Stansby, Peter K. 2006-09 https://research.manchester.ac.uk/en/publications/a06983ea-1447-4c61-97e8-63ef645978f5 https://doi.org/10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97 http://www.atypon-link.com/TELF/doi/pdf/10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97 eng eng info:eu-repo/semantics/closedAccess Borthwick , A G L , Ford , M , Weston , B P , Taylor , P H & Stansby , P K 2006 , ' Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach ' , Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers: Maritime Engineering , vol. 159 , no. 3 , pp. 97-105 . https://doi.org/10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97 Coastal engineering Safety & hazards Sea defences article 2006 ftumanchesterpub https://doi.org/10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97 2023-10-30T09:13:05Z A validated one-dimensional Boussinesq-non-linear shallow water equations numerical model was used to investigate the interaction of solitary waves with beaches. The numerical model requires two adjustable parameters: the bed friction coefficient and a wave breaking parameter. Excellent agreement was achieved between the numerical predictions of solitary wave transformation and run-up at a plane beach with two sets of high-quality laboratory measurements: one a large number of experiments in a wave flume by Synolakis, the other in the UK Coastal Research Facility. A parameter study investigated the effect of uniform offshore water depth, bed friction and bed slope on solitary wave run-up. A uniform water depth may be associated with a continental shelf region. The non-dimensional run-up was found to be an asymptotic function of non-dimensional wave amplitude at high and low values of initial wave steepness. Both asymptotes scale as (R/ho) ∼ α(Ao/h o)β where R is run-up (defined as the vertical elevation reached by the wave uprush above still water level), Ao is the offshore wave amplitude and ho is the uniform depth offshore of the beach. The empirical coefficients α and β depend on the beach characteristics. The model is then used to simulate the interaction of a full-scale tsunami event with an idealised beach profile representative of a beach in Eastern Kamchatka. Article in Journal/Newspaper Kamchatka The University of Manchester: Research Explorer Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Maritime Engineering 159 3 97 105 |
institution |
Open Polar |
collection |
The University of Manchester: Research Explorer |
op_collection_id |
ftumanchesterpub |
language |
English |
topic |
Coastal engineering Safety & hazards Sea defences |
spellingShingle |
Coastal engineering Safety & hazards Sea defences Borthwick, Alistair G L Ford, Michael Weston, Benjamin P. Taylor, Paul H. Stansby, Peter K. Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach |
topic_facet |
Coastal engineering Safety & hazards Sea defences |
description |
A validated one-dimensional Boussinesq-non-linear shallow water equations numerical model was used to investigate the interaction of solitary waves with beaches. The numerical model requires two adjustable parameters: the bed friction coefficient and a wave breaking parameter. Excellent agreement was achieved between the numerical predictions of solitary wave transformation and run-up at a plane beach with two sets of high-quality laboratory measurements: one a large number of experiments in a wave flume by Synolakis, the other in the UK Coastal Research Facility. A parameter study investigated the effect of uniform offshore water depth, bed friction and bed slope on solitary wave run-up. A uniform water depth may be associated with a continental shelf region. The non-dimensional run-up was found to be an asymptotic function of non-dimensional wave amplitude at high and low values of initial wave steepness. Both asymptotes scale as (R/ho) ∼ α(Ao/h o)β where R is run-up (defined as the vertical elevation reached by the wave uprush above still water level), Ao is the offshore wave amplitude and ho is the uniform depth offshore of the beach. The empirical coefficients α and β depend on the beach characteristics. The model is then used to simulate the interaction of a full-scale tsunami event with an idealised beach profile representative of a beach in Eastern Kamchatka. |
format |
Article in Journal/Newspaper |
author |
Borthwick, Alistair G L Ford, Michael Weston, Benjamin P. Taylor, Paul H. Stansby, Peter K. |
author_facet |
Borthwick, Alistair G L Ford, Michael Weston, Benjamin P. Taylor, Paul H. Stansby, Peter K. |
author_sort |
Borthwick, Alistair G L |
title |
Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach |
title_short |
Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach |
title_full |
Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach |
title_fullStr |
Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach |
title_full_unstemmed |
Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach |
title_sort |
solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach |
publishDate |
2006 |
url |
https://research.manchester.ac.uk/en/publications/a06983ea-1447-4c61-97e8-63ef645978f5 https://doi.org/10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97 http://www.atypon-link.com/TELF/doi/pdf/10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97 |
genre |
Kamchatka |
genre_facet |
Kamchatka |
op_source |
Borthwick , A G L , Ford , M , Weston , B P , Taylor , P H & Stansby , P K 2006 , ' Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach ' , Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers: Maritime Engineering , vol. 159 , no. 3 , pp. 97-105 . https://doi.org/10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97 |
op_rights |
info:eu-repo/semantics/closedAccess |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97 |
container_title |
Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Maritime Engineering |
container_volume |
159 |
container_issue |
3 |
container_start_page |
97 |
op_container_end_page |
105 |
_version_ |
1782336192055869440 |