Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits
The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two...
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ftpubmed:oai:pubmedcentral.nih.gov:9604162 2023-05-15T16:06:04+02:00 Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits Smiljanic, Sandra Messaraa, Cyril Lafon-Kolb, Virginie Hrapovic, Nina Amini, Nahid Osterlund, Christina Visdal-Johnsen, Lene 2022-10-19 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9604162/ https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms232012507 en eng MDPI http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9604162/ http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/ijms232012507 © 2022 by the authors. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/). CC-BY Int J Mol Sci Article Text 2022 ftpubmed https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms232012507 2022-10-30T01:12:40Z The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration. Text Empetrum nigrum PubMed Central (PMC) International Journal of Molecular Sciences 23 20 12507 |
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Article Smiljanic, Sandra Messaraa, Cyril Lafon-Kolb, Virginie Hrapovic, Nina Amini, Nahid Osterlund, Christina Visdal-Johnsen, Lene Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits |
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Article |
description |
The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration. |
format |
Text |
author |
Smiljanic, Sandra Messaraa, Cyril Lafon-Kolb, Virginie Hrapovic, Nina Amini, Nahid Osterlund, Christina Visdal-Johnsen, Lene |
author_facet |
Smiljanic, Sandra Messaraa, Cyril Lafon-Kolb, Virginie Hrapovic, Nina Amini, Nahid Osterlund, Christina Visdal-Johnsen, Lene |
author_sort |
Smiljanic, Sandra |
title |
Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits |
title_short |
Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits |
title_full |
Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits |
title_fullStr |
Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits |
title_full_unstemmed |
Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits |
title_sort |
betula alba bark extract and empetrum nigrum fruit juice, a natural alternative to niacinamide for skin barrier benefits |
publisher |
MDPI |
publishDate |
2022 |
url |
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9604162/ https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms232012507 |
genre |
Empetrum nigrum |
genre_facet |
Empetrum nigrum |
op_source |
Int J Mol Sci |
op_relation |
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9604162/ http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/ijms232012507 |
op_rights |
© 2022 by the authors. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/). |
op_rightsnorm |
CC-BY |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms232012507 |
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International Journal of Molecular Sciences |
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23 |
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20 |
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12507 |
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1766401976927518720 |