Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing
Bi-directional wave climates often drive beach rotation, increasing erosional risk at semi-sheltered locations. Identification of rotation and forcing mechanisms is vital to future coastal defence. In this study, regional investigation of modelled wave data revealed strong bi-directionality between...
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ftmdpi:oai:mdpi.com:/2077-1312/7/4/116/ 2023-08-20T04:08:26+02:00 Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing Mark Wiggins Tim Scott Gerd Masselink Paul Russell Nieves G. Valiente agris 2019-04-23 application/pdf https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 EN eng Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Journal of Marine Science and Engineering; Volume 7; Issue 4; Pages: 116 beach rotation bi-directional waves NAO WEPA erosion storm winter atmospheric oscillations climate indices Text 2019 ftmdpi https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 2023-07-31T22:13:02Z Bi-directional wave climates often drive beach rotation, increasing erosional risk at semi-sheltered locations. Identification of rotation and forcing mechanisms is vital to future coastal defence. In this study, regional investigation of modelled wave data revealed strong bi-directionality between dominant south-westerly and sub-dominant easterly waves for 14 offshore locations along the length of the south coast of England, U.K. South-westerly wave power was well correlated to positive phases of the West Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA), whilst easterly wave power was well correlated with negative phases of the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO). Additionally, decadal records of beach morphological change and associated wave forcing, were investigated for 22 coastal sites across the same region. Significant rotational behaviour was identified at 11 sites, leading to the creation of a rotation index. Beach rotation was attributed to shoreline angle, with the strongest rotation occurring at south-east-facing beaches, with high obliquity to dominant south-westerly waves. The beach rotation index was well correlated with the normalized balance of wave power from opposing south-westerly and easterly directions. Direct correlations between beach rotation and WEPA at two sites showed that future forecasts of atmospheric indices may allow prediction of rotational beach state, at seasonal scales. Text North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation MDPI Open Access Publishing Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 7 4 116 |
institution |
Open Polar |
collection |
MDPI Open Access Publishing |
op_collection_id |
ftmdpi |
language |
English |
topic |
beach rotation bi-directional waves NAO WEPA erosion storm winter atmospheric oscillations climate indices |
spellingShingle |
beach rotation bi-directional waves NAO WEPA erosion storm winter atmospheric oscillations climate indices Mark Wiggins Tim Scott Gerd Masselink Paul Russell Nieves G. Valiente Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
topic_facet |
beach rotation bi-directional waves NAO WEPA erosion storm winter atmospheric oscillations climate indices |
description |
Bi-directional wave climates often drive beach rotation, increasing erosional risk at semi-sheltered locations. Identification of rotation and forcing mechanisms is vital to future coastal defence. In this study, regional investigation of modelled wave data revealed strong bi-directionality between dominant south-westerly and sub-dominant easterly waves for 14 offshore locations along the length of the south coast of England, U.K. South-westerly wave power was well correlated to positive phases of the West Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA), whilst easterly wave power was well correlated with negative phases of the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO). Additionally, decadal records of beach morphological change and associated wave forcing, were investigated for 22 coastal sites across the same region. Significant rotational behaviour was identified at 11 sites, leading to the creation of a rotation index. Beach rotation was attributed to shoreline angle, with the strongest rotation occurring at south-east-facing beaches, with high obliquity to dominant south-westerly waves. The beach rotation index was well correlated with the normalized balance of wave power from opposing south-westerly and easterly directions. Direct correlations between beach rotation and WEPA at two sites showed that future forecasts of atmospheric indices may allow prediction of rotational beach state, at seasonal scales. |
format |
Text |
author |
Mark Wiggins Tim Scott Gerd Masselink Paul Russell Nieves G. Valiente |
author_facet |
Mark Wiggins Tim Scott Gerd Masselink Paul Russell Nieves G. Valiente |
author_sort |
Mark Wiggins |
title |
Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
title_short |
Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
title_full |
Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
title_fullStr |
Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
title_full_unstemmed |
Regionally-Coherent Embayment Rotation: Behavioural Response to Bi-Directional Waves and Atmospheric Forcing |
title_sort |
regionally-coherent embayment rotation: behavioural response to bi-directional waves and atmospheric forcing |
publisher |
Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute |
publishDate |
2019 |
url |
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 |
op_coverage |
agris |
genre |
North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation |
genre_facet |
North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation |
op_source |
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering; Volume 7; Issue 4; Pages: 116 |
op_relation |
https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 |
op_rights |
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7040116 |
container_title |
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
container_volume |
7 |
container_issue |
4 |
container_start_page |
116 |
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1774720688241770496 |