Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions
Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004–2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the...
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ftmdpi:oai:mdpi.com:/2077-1312/3/3/674/ 2023-08-20T04:08:26+02:00 Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions Serge Suanez Romain Cancouët France Floc'h Emmanuel Blaise Fabrice Ardhuin Jean-François Filipot Jean-Marie Cariolet Christophe Delacourt agris 2015-07-24 application/pdf https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse3030674 EN eng Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse3030674 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Journal of Marine Science and Engineering; Volume 3; Issue 3; Pages: 674-698 macrotidal beach runup storm dune erosion extreme water level NAO Text 2015 ftmdpi https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse3030674 2023-07-31T20:45:18Z Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004–2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide; (ii) storm surge; and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,–1, and high tide water level—HTWL) data sets obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01Hmoξo) and field runup measurements (Rmax) was obtained (R2 85%). The goodness of fit given by the RMSE was about 0.29 m. A good relationship was noticed between dune erosion and high water levels when the water levels exceeded the dune foot elevation. In contrast, when extreme water levels were below the height of the toe of the dune sediment budget increased, inducing foredune recovery. These erosion and accretion phases may be related to the North Atlantic Oscillation Index. Text North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation MDPI Open Access Publishing The Toe ENVELOPE(-59.167,-59.167,-62.333,-62.333) Swash ENVELOPE(-67.524,-67.524,-67.581,-67.581) Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 3 3 674 698 |
institution |
Open Polar |
collection |
MDPI Open Access Publishing |
op_collection_id |
ftmdpi |
language |
English |
topic |
macrotidal beach runup storm dune erosion extreme water level NAO |
spellingShingle |
macrotidal beach runup storm dune erosion extreme water level NAO Serge Suanez Romain Cancouët France Floc'h Emmanuel Blaise Fabrice Ardhuin Jean-François Filipot Jean-Marie Cariolet Christophe Delacourt Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions |
topic_facet |
macrotidal beach runup storm dune erosion extreme water level NAO |
description |
Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004–2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide; (ii) storm surge; and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,–1, and high tide water level—HTWL) data sets obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01Hmoξo) and field runup measurements (Rmax) was obtained (R2 85%). The goodness of fit given by the RMSE was about 0.29 m. A good relationship was noticed between dune erosion and high water levels when the water levels exceeded the dune foot elevation. In contrast, when extreme water levels were below the height of the toe of the dune sediment budget increased, inducing foredune recovery. These erosion and accretion phases may be related to the North Atlantic Oscillation Index. |
format |
Text |
author |
Serge Suanez Romain Cancouët France Floc'h Emmanuel Blaise Fabrice Ardhuin Jean-François Filipot Jean-Marie Cariolet Christophe Delacourt |
author_facet |
Serge Suanez Romain Cancouët France Floc'h Emmanuel Blaise Fabrice Ardhuin Jean-François Filipot Jean-Marie Cariolet Christophe Delacourt |
author_sort |
Serge Suanez |
title |
Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions |
title_short |
Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions |
title_full |
Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions |
title_fullStr |
Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions |
title_full_unstemmed |
Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions |
title_sort |
observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions |
publisher |
Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute |
publishDate |
2015 |
url |
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse3030674 |
op_coverage |
agris |
long_lat |
ENVELOPE(-59.167,-59.167,-62.333,-62.333) ENVELOPE(-67.524,-67.524,-67.581,-67.581) |
geographic |
The Toe Swash |
geographic_facet |
The Toe Swash |
genre |
North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation |
genre_facet |
North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation |
op_source |
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering; Volume 3; Issue 3; Pages: 674-698 |
op_relation |
https://dx.doi.org/10.3390/jmse3030674 |
op_rights |
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse3030674 |
container_title |
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
container_volume |
3 |
container_issue |
3 |
container_start_page |
674 |
op_container_end_page |
698 |
_version_ |
1774720694833119232 |