Short-term development of Arctic beach system: Case study of wave control on beach morphology and sedimentology (Calypsostranda, Bellsund, Svalbard)
The objective of this research is to determine the impact of waves on the segregation of sediment within the area of its supply in the context of meteorological conditions. The research was conducted on a 4 km section of the shore of Calypsostranda (Bellsund, West Spitsbergen), shaped by waves such...
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ftdoajarticles:oai:doaj.org/article:feef545cfba2484a83e5bc2da916f897 2023-05-15T14:59:49+02:00 Short-term development of Arctic beach system: Case study of wave control on beach morphology and sedimentology (Calypsostranda, Bellsund, Svalbard) Piotr Zagórski Karolina Mędrek Mateusz Moskalik Jan Rodzik Agnieszka Herman Łukasz Pawłowski Marek Jaskólski 2019-06-01T00:00:00Z https://doi.org/10.24425/ppr.2019.128368 https://doaj.org/article/feef545cfba2484a83e5bc2da916f897 EN eng Polish Academy of Sciences https://journals.pan.pl/Content/111975/PDF/Polish%20Polar%20Res.%202-19%202-P.Zagorski.pdf https://doaj.org/toc/0138-0338 https://doaj.org/toc/2081-8262 0138-0338 2081-8262 https://doi.org/10.24425/ppr.2019.128368 https://doaj.org/article/feef545cfba2484a83e5bc2da916f897 Polish Polar Research, Vol vol. 40, Iss No 2, Pp 79-104 (2019) arctic spitsbergen photogrammetric granulometry sediment texture impact of waves Geology QE1-996.5 article 2019 ftdoajarticles https://doi.org/10.24425/ppr.2019.128368 2022-12-30T21:17:18Z The objective of this research is to determine the impact of waves on the segregation of sediment within the area of its supply in the context of meteorological conditions. The research was conducted on a 4 km section of the shore of Calypsostranda (Bellsund, West Spitsbergen), shaped by waves such as swell, wind waves, and tides. Particular attention was paid to the diversity and variability of the surface texture within the intertidal zone. Meteorological measurements, recording of wave climate, as well as analysis of the grain-size distribution of the beach sediments were performed. Nearshore bathymetry, longshore drifts, episodic sediment delivery from land, as well as resistance of the shore to coastal erosion and direction of transport of sediments in the shore zone are important factors controlling shore development. Data show that wind waves contribute to erosion and discharge of material from the nearshore and intertidal zone. The research also shows that oceanic swell, altered by diffraction, reaching the shore of Calypsostranda contributes to better sorting of sediment deposited on the shore through washing it out from among gravels, and longshore transport of its finest fraction. The grain size distribution of shore sediments is significantly changed already during one tidal cycle. The degree of this modification depends not only on wave height and period but on the direction of wave impact. The shore of Calypsostranda can be regarded as transitional between high and low energy coasts. Article in Journal/Newspaper Arctic Bellsund Polar Research Svalbard Spitsbergen Directory of Open Access Journals: DOAJ Articles Arctic Bellsund ENVELOPE(14.226,14.226,77.662,77.662) Calypsostranda ENVELOPE(14.513,14.513,77.555,77.555) Svalbard |
institution |
Open Polar |
collection |
Directory of Open Access Journals: DOAJ Articles |
op_collection_id |
ftdoajarticles |
language |
English |
topic |
arctic spitsbergen photogrammetric granulometry sediment texture impact of waves Geology QE1-996.5 |
spellingShingle |
arctic spitsbergen photogrammetric granulometry sediment texture impact of waves Geology QE1-996.5 Piotr Zagórski Karolina Mędrek Mateusz Moskalik Jan Rodzik Agnieszka Herman Łukasz Pawłowski Marek Jaskólski Short-term development of Arctic beach system: Case study of wave control on beach morphology and sedimentology (Calypsostranda, Bellsund, Svalbard) |
topic_facet |
arctic spitsbergen photogrammetric granulometry sediment texture impact of waves Geology QE1-996.5 |
description |
The objective of this research is to determine the impact of waves on the segregation of sediment within the area of its supply in the context of meteorological conditions. The research was conducted on a 4 km section of the shore of Calypsostranda (Bellsund, West Spitsbergen), shaped by waves such as swell, wind waves, and tides. Particular attention was paid to the diversity and variability of the surface texture within the intertidal zone. Meteorological measurements, recording of wave climate, as well as analysis of the grain-size distribution of the beach sediments were performed. Nearshore bathymetry, longshore drifts, episodic sediment delivery from land, as well as resistance of the shore to coastal erosion and direction of transport of sediments in the shore zone are important factors controlling shore development. Data show that wind waves contribute to erosion and discharge of material from the nearshore and intertidal zone. The research also shows that oceanic swell, altered by diffraction, reaching the shore of Calypsostranda contributes to better sorting of sediment deposited on the shore through washing it out from among gravels, and longshore transport of its finest fraction. The grain size distribution of shore sediments is significantly changed already during one tidal cycle. The degree of this modification depends not only on wave height and period but on the direction of wave impact. The shore of Calypsostranda can be regarded as transitional between high and low energy coasts. |
format |
Article in Journal/Newspaper |
author |
Piotr Zagórski Karolina Mędrek Mateusz Moskalik Jan Rodzik Agnieszka Herman Łukasz Pawłowski Marek Jaskólski |
author_facet |
Piotr Zagórski Karolina Mędrek Mateusz Moskalik Jan Rodzik Agnieszka Herman Łukasz Pawłowski Marek Jaskólski |
author_sort |
Piotr Zagórski |
title |
Short-term development of Arctic beach system: Case study of wave control on beach morphology and sedimentology (Calypsostranda, Bellsund, Svalbard) |
title_short |
Short-term development of Arctic beach system: Case study of wave control on beach morphology and sedimentology (Calypsostranda, Bellsund, Svalbard) |
title_full |
Short-term development of Arctic beach system: Case study of wave control on beach morphology and sedimentology (Calypsostranda, Bellsund, Svalbard) |
title_fullStr |
Short-term development of Arctic beach system: Case study of wave control on beach morphology and sedimentology (Calypsostranda, Bellsund, Svalbard) |
title_full_unstemmed |
Short-term development of Arctic beach system: Case study of wave control on beach morphology and sedimentology (Calypsostranda, Bellsund, Svalbard) |
title_sort |
short-term development of arctic beach system: case study of wave control on beach morphology and sedimentology (calypsostranda, bellsund, svalbard) |
publisher |
Polish Academy of Sciences |
publishDate |
2019 |
url |
https://doi.org/10.24425/ppr.2019.128368 https://doaj.org/article/feef545cfba2484a83e5bc2da916f897 |
long_lat |
ENVELOPE(14.226,14.226,77.662,77.662) ENVELOPE(14.513,14.513,77.555,77.555) |
geographic |
Arctic Bellsund Calypsostranda Svalbard |
geographic_facet |
Arctic Bellsund Calypsostranda Svalbard |
genre |
Arctic Bellsund Polar Research Svalbard Spitsbergen |
genre_facet |
Arctic Bellsund Polar Research Svalbard Spitsbergen |
op_source |
Polish Polar Research, Vol vol. 40, Iss No 2, Pp 79-104 (2019) |
op_relation |
https://journals.pan.pl/Content/111975/PDF/Polish%20Polar%20Res.%202-19%202-P.Zagorski.pdf https://doaj.org/toc/0138-0338 https://doaj.org/toc/2081-8262 0138-0338 2081-8262 https://doi.org/10.24425/ppr.2019.128368 https://doaj.org/article/feef545cfba2484a83e5bc2da916f897 |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.24425/ppr.2019.128368 |
_version_ |
1766331932978708480 |