Arctic design: revisiting traditional fur clothing within the daily routine of reindeer nomads

• Published in: Heliyon
• Main Authors: Svetlana Usenyuk-Kravchuk, Nikolai Garin, Alexandra Trofimenko, Denis Kukanov
• Format: Article in Journal/Newspaper
• Language: English
• Published: Elsevier 2020
• Subjects: Arctic; Reindeer; Fur clothing; Nenets people; Adaptation; Biomimesis; Science (General); Q1-390; Social sciences (General); H1-99; nenets
• Online Access: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.heliyon.2020.e03355; https://doaj.org/article/fe3491024eb640a19090fc895c65b4b4

This research investigates the domain of indigenous fur clothing for the extreme conditions of the Arctic. The main goal is to reveal the principles of personal wellbeing through observing and analyzing traditional Nenets fur coat and footwear together with the actual experiences of making and using clothing items. For that, we draw from the existing pool of research on functional parameters tested and evaluated in a lab and our empirical data (interviews and participant observations 2013–2016), to eventually come up with two interwoven concepts of clothing based on bio- and cultural mimesis. On the one hand, traditional fur clothing is the result of the biomimetic appropriation of natural abilities of reindeer to withstand severe climates. On the other, it is the embodiment of knowledge on the environment and skills acquired through the dynamic relationship between tools, materials, and personal identities of makers and wearers. This conceptualization, we argue, provides insights into how to both support the very existence in the extreme/severe environment and contribute to personal wellbeing. We conclude by proposing directions for further research towards developing design standards for the emerging multicultural community of Arctic newcomers.