Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits

• Published in: International Journal of Molecular Sciences
• Main Authors: Sandra Smiljanic, Cyril Messaraa, Virginie Lafon-Kolb, Nina Hrapovic, Nahid Amini, Christina Osterlund, Lene Visdal-Johnsen
• Format: Article in Journal/Newspaper
• Language: English
• Published: MDPI AG 2022
• Subjects: skin barrier; hydration; Scandinavian endemic plants; natural ingredient; Betula alba; Empetrum nigrum; Biology (General); QH301-705.5; Chemistry; QD1-999
• Online Access: https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms232012507; https://doaj.org/article/a5c4f44515c1443d94c4fd207db9b205

The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration.