Morphodynamic Response of Open and Embayed Beaches to Winter Conditions: Two Case Studies from the North Atlantic Iberian Coast
The morphological responses of two mesotidal beaches located in different coastal settings (embayed and open sandy beaches) on the northwestern Iberian coast were monitored during the winter of 2018/19. The offshore wave time series analysis is related to high-resolution topo-bathymetric measurement...
Published in: | Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
---|---|
Main Authors: | , , , , , , , |
Format: | Article in Journal/Newspaper |
Language: | English |
Published: |
MDPI AG
2024
|
Subjects: | |
Online Access: | https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12010168 https://doaj.org/article/4d978ebb862a4d61b1dffe2dce355e03 |
id |
ftdoajarticles:oai:doaj.org/article:4d978ebb862a4d61b1dffe2dce355e03 |
---|---|
record_format |
openpolar |
spelling |
ftdoajarticles:oai:doaj.org/article:4d978ebb862a4d61b1dffe2dce355e03 2024-02-27T08:43:26+00:00 Morphodynamic Response of Open and Embayed Beaches to Winter Conditions: Two Case Studies from the North Atlantic Iberian Coast Ángela Fontán-Bouzas Tiago Abreu Caroline C. Ferreira Paulo A. Silva Laura López-Olmedilla José Guitián Ana M. Bernabeu Javier Alcántara-Carrió 2024-01-01T00:00:00Z https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12010168 https://doaj.org/article/4d978ebb862a4d61b1dffe2dce355e03 EN eng MDPI AG https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/12/1/168 https://doaj.org/toc/2077-1312 doi:10.3390/jmse12010168 2077-1312 https://doaj.org/article/4d978ebb862a4d61b1dffe2dce355e03 Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, Vol 12, Iss 1, p 168 (2024) beach survey nearshore morphological changes bathymetry extreme events Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering VM1-989 Oceanography GC1-1581 article 2024 ftdoajarticles https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12010168 2024-01-28T01:40:50Z The morphological responses of two mesotidal beaches located in different coastal settings (embayed and open sandy beaches) on the northwestern Iberian coast were monitored during the winter of 2018/19. The offshore wave time series analysis is related to high-resolution topo-bathymetric measurements to explore spatial-temporal morphological variability at monthly to seasonal scales. Both locations are subjected to the North Atlantic wave climate which exhibits a pronounced seasonality. Throughout the last decade (2010–2020), significant wave heights reached values of up to H s ~9 m during winters and up to H s ~6 m during summers. On average, approximately 12 storms occurred annually in this region. The results clearly reveal divergent morphological responses and sediment transport behaviors at the upper beach and the intertidal zone during the winter for each location. In the embayed beach (Patos), sediment transport in the nearshore is governed by cross-shore processes between the beach berm and a submerged sandbar. In contrast, the open beach (Mira) showed dynamic sediment exchanges and three-dimensional morphologies alternating between accumulation and erosion zones. Overall, both beaches exhibited an erosional trend after the winter, particularly concerning berm erosion and the subaerial beach volume/shoreline retreat. This study highlights the contrasting morphodynamic response on open and embayed beaches to winter conditions, integrating both the subaerial and submerged zones. Local geological and environmental factors, as well as the coastal management strategies applied, will influence how the beach responds to winter wave events. Monitoring and understanding these responses are essential for effective coastal management and adaptation to changing climate. Article in Journal/Newspaper North Atlantic Directory of Open Access Journals: DOAJ Articles Mira ENVELOPE(10.500,10.500,-70.417,-70.417) Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 12 1 168 |
institution |
Open Polar |
collection |
Directory of Open Access Journals: DOAJ Articles |
op_collection_id |
ftdoajarticles |
language |
English |
topic |
beach survey nearshore morphological changes bathymetry extreme events Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering VM1-989 Oceanography GC1-1581 |
spellingShingle |
beach survey nearshore morphological changes bathymetry extreme events Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering VM1-989 Oceanography GC1-1581 Ángela Fontán-Bouzas Tiago Abreu Caroline C. Ferreira Paulo A. Silva Laura López-Olmedilla José Guitián Ana M. Bernabeu Javier Alcántara-Carrió Morphodynamic Response of Open and Embayed Beaches to Winter Conditions: Two Case Studies from the North Atlantic Iberian Coast |
topic_facet |
beach survey nearshore morphological changes bathymetry extreme events Naval architecture. Shipbuilding. Marine engineering VM1-989 Oceanography GC1-1581 |
description |
The morphological responses of two mesotidal beaches located in different coastal settings (embayed and open sandy beaches) on the northwestern Iberian coast were monitored during the winter of 2018/19. The offshore wave time series analysis is related to high-resolution topo-bathymetric measurements to explore spatial-temporal morphological variability at monthly to seasonal scales. Both locations are subjected to the North Atlantic wave climate which exhibits a pronounced seasonality. Throughout the last decade (2010–2020), significant wave heights reached values of up to H s ~9 m during winters and up to H s ~6 m during summers. On average, approximately 12 storms occurred annually in this region. The results clearly reveal divergent morphological responses and sediment transport behaviors at the upper beach and the intertidal zone during the winter for each location. In the embayed beach (Patos), sediment transport in the nearshore is governed by cross-shore processes between the beach berm and a submerged sandbar. In contrast, the open beach (Mira) showed dynamic sediment exchanges and three-dimensional morphologies alternating between accumulation and erosion zones. Overall, both beaches exhibited an erosional trend after the winter, particularly concerning berm erosion and the subaerial beach volume/shoreline retreat. This study highlights the contrasting morphodynamic response on open and embayed beaches to winter conditions, integrating both the subaerial and submerged zones. Local geological and environmental factors, as well as the coastal management strategies applied, will influence how the beach responds to winter wave events. Monitoring and understanding these responses are essential for effective coastal management and adaptation to changing climate. |
format |
Article in Journal/Newspaper |
author |
Ángela Fontán-Bouzas Tiago Abreu Caroline C. Ferreira Paulo A. Silva Laura López-Olmedilla José Guitián Ana M. Bernabeu Javier Alcántara-Carrió |
author_facet |
Ángela Fontán-Bouzas Tiago Abreu Caroline C. Ferreira Paulo A. Silva Laura López-Olmedilla José Guitián Ana M. Bernabeu Javier Alcántara-Carrió |
author_sort |
Ángela Fontán-Bouzas |
title |
Morphodynamic Response of Open and Embayed Beaches to Winter Conditions: Two Case Studies from the North Atlantic Iberian Coast |
title_short |
Morphodynamic Response of Open and Embayed Beaches to Winter Conditions: Two Case Studies from the North Atlantic Iberian Coast |
title_full |
Morphodynamic Response of Open and Embayed Beaches to Winter Conditions: Two Case Studies from the North Atlantic Iberian Coast |
title_fullStr |
Morphodynamic Response of Open and Embayed Beaches to Winter Conditions: Two Case Studies from the North Atlantic Iberian Coast |
title_full_unstemmed |
Morphodynamic Response of Open and Embayed Beaches to Winter Conditions: Two Case Studies from the North Atlantic Iberian Coast |
title_sort |
morphodynamic response of open and embayed beaches to winter conditions: two case studies from the north atlantic iberian coast |
publisher |
MDPI AG |
publishDate |
2024 |
url |
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12010168 https://doaj.org/article/4d978ebb862a4d61b1dffe2dce355e03 |
long_lat |
ENVELOPE(10.500,10.500,-70.417,-70.417) |
geographic |
Mira |
geographic_facet |
Mira |
genre |
North Atlantic |
genre_facet |
North Atlantic |
op_source |
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, Vol 12, Iss 1, p 168 (2024) |
op_relation |
https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/12/1/168 https://doaj.org/toc/2077-1312 doi:10.3390/jmse12010168 2077-1312 https://doaj.org/article/4d978ebb862a4d61b1dffe2dce355e03 |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12010168 |
container_title |
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
container_volume |
12 |
container_issue |
1 |
container_start_page |
168 |
_version_ |
1792051422843371520 |