Refraction of swell by surface currents

Using recordings of swell from pitch-and-roll buoys, we have reproduced the classic observations of long-range surface wave propagation originally made by Munk et al. (1963) using a triangular array of bottom pressure measurements. In the modern data, the direction of the incoming swell fluctuates b...

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Bibliographic Details
Main Authors: Gallet, Basile, Young, William R.
Format: Report
Language:unknown
Published: arXiv 2014
Subjects:
Online Access:https://dx.doi.org/10.48550/arxiv.1410.1676
https://arxiv.org/abs/1410.1676