Refraction of swell by surface currents

• Main Authors: Basile Gallet, William R. Young
• Other Authors: The Pennsylvania State University CiteSeerX Archives
• Format: Text
• Language: English
• Subjects: Antarctic; Mirages; Munk; New Zealand; Southern Ocean; The Antarctic; Antarc*
• Online Access: http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/summary?doi=10.1.1.696.4044; http://www-pord.ucsd.edu/%7Ewryoung/reprintPDFs/GalletJMR.pdf

Using recordings of swell from pitch-and-roll buoys, we have reproduced the classic observations of long-range surface wave propagation originally made by Munk et al. (1963) using a triangular array of bottom pressure measurements. In the modern data, the direction of the incoming swell fluctuates b...