WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION BY INTERTIDAL SAND WAVES ON A MIXED-SEDIMENT BEACH
Abstract: Within the surf zone, the energy expended by wave breaking is strongly influenced by nearshore bathymetry, which is often linked to the character and abundance of local sediments. Based upon a continuous, two year record of Argus Beach Monitoring System (ABMS) data on the north shore of Ka...
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ftciteseerx:oai:CiteSeerX.psu:10.1.1.1052.5918 2023-05-15T16:57:47+02:00 WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION BY INTERTIDAL SAND WAVES ON A MIXED-SEDIMENT BEACH Peter Adams Peter Ruggiero The Pennsylvania State University CiteSeerX Archives application/pdf http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/summary?doi=10.1.1.1052.5918 http://geo.oregonstate.edu/files/geo/Adams_Ruggiero_Coastal_Dynamics_2005.pdf en eng http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/summary?doi=10.1.1.1052.5918 http://geo.oregonstate.edu/files/geo/Adams_Ruggiero_Coastal_Dynamics_2005.pdf Metadata may be used without restrictions as long as the oai identifier remains attached to it. http://geo.oregonstate.edu/files/geo/Adams_Ruggiero_Coastal_Dynamics_2005.pdf text ftciteseerx 2020-04-12T00:16:33Z Abstract: Within the surf zone, the energy expended by wave breaking is strongly influenced by nearshore bathymetry, which is often linked to the character and abundance of local sediments. Based upon a continuous, two year record of Argus Beach Monitoring System (ABMS) data on the north shore of Kachemak Bay in southcentral Alaska, we model the enhancement of wave energy dissipation by the presence of intertidal sand waves. Comparison of model results from simulations in the presence and absence of sand waves illustrates that these ephemeral morphological features can offer significant protection to the backing beach and sea cliff through two mechanisms: (1) by moving the locus of wave breaking seaward and (2) by increasing energy expenditure associated with the turbulence of wave breaking. Text Kachemak Alaska Unknown |
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English |
description |
Abstract: Within the surf zone, the energy expended by wave breaking is strongly influenced by nearshore bathymetry, which is often linked to the character and abundance of local sediments. Based upon a continuous, two year record of Argus Beach Monitoring System (ABMS) data on the north shore of Kachemak Bay in southcentral Alaska, we model the enhancement of wave energy dissipation by the presence of intertidal sand waves. Comparison of model results from simulations in the presence and absence of sand waves illustrates that these ephemeral morphological features can offer significant protection to the backing beach and sea cliff through two mechanisms: (1) by moving the locus of wave breaking seaward and (2) by increasing energy expenditure associated with the turbulence of wave breaking. |
author2 |
The Pennsylvania State University CiteSeerX Archives |
format |
Text |
author |
Peter Adams Peter Ruggiero |
spellingShingle |
Peter Adams Peter Ruggiero WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION BY INTERTIDAL SAND WAVES ON A MIXED-SEDIMENT BEACH |
author_facet |
Peter Adams Peter Ruggiero |
author_sort |
Peter Adams |
title |
WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION BY INTERTIDAL SAND WAVES ON A MIXED-SEDIMENT BEACH |
title_short |
WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION BY INTERTIDAL SAND WAVES ON A MIXED-SEDIMENT BEACH |
title_full |
WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION BY INTERTIDAL SAND WAVES ON A MIXED-SEDIMENT BEACH |
title_fullStr |
WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION BY INTERTIDAL SAND WAVES ON A MIXED-SEDIMENT BEACH |
title_full_unstemmed |
WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION BY INTERTIDAL SAND WAVES ON A MIXED-SEDIMENT BEACH |
title_sort |
wave energy dissipation by intertidal sand waves on a mixed-sediment beach |
url |
http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/summary?doi=10.1.1.1052.5918 http://geo.oregonstate.edu/files/geo/Adams_Ruggiero_Coastal_Dynamics_2005.pdf |
genre |
Kachemak Alaska |
genre_facet |
Kachemak Alaska |
op_source |
http://geo.oregonstate.edu/files/geo/Adams_Ruggiero_Coastal_Dynamics_2005.pdf |
op_relation |
http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/summary?doi=10.1.1.1052.5918 http://geo.oregonstate.edu/files/geo/Adams_Ruggiero_Coastal_Dynamics_2005.pdf |
op_rights |
Metadata may be used without restrictions as long as the oai identifier remains attached to it. |
_version_ |
1766049410326724608 |