Observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions
International audience Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004-2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measur...
Published in: | Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
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Main Authors: | , , , , , , , |
Other Authors: | , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , |
Format: | Article in Journal/Newspaper |
Language: | English |
Published: |
HAL CCSD
2015
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Subjects: | |
Online Access: | https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040/document https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040/file/Suanez_JMSE_2015.pdf https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse3030674 |
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ftccsdartic:oai:HAL:hal-01176040v1 |
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openpolar |
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Open Polar |
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Archive ouverte HAL (Hyper Article en Ligne, CCSD - Centre pour la Communication Scientifique Directe) |
op_collection_id |
ftccsdartic |
language |
English |
topic |
dune storm runup macrotidal beach NAO extreme water level erosion [SDU.STU.GM]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Geomorphology [SDE]Environmental Sciences |
spellingShingle |
dune storm runup macrotidal beach NAO extreme water level erosion [SDU.STU.GM]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Geomorphology [SDE]Environmental Sciences Suanez, Serge, Cancouët, Romain Floc'H, France Blaise, Emmanuel Ardhuin, Fabrice Filipot, Jean-François Cariolet, Jean-Marie Delacourt, Christophe Observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions |
topic_facet |
dune storm runup macrotidal beach NAO extreme water level erosion [SDU.STU.GM]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Geomorphology [SDE]Environmental Sciences |
description |
International audience Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004-2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide, (ii) storm surge, and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,-1, and high tide water level – HTWL) data sets obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01Hmoξo) and field runup measurements (Rmax) was obtained (R2 85%). The goodness of fit given by the RMSE was about 0.29 m. A good relationship was noticed between dune erosion and high water levels when the water levels exceeded the dune foot elevation. In contrast, when extreme water levels were below the height of the toe of the dune sediment budget increased, inducing foredune recovery. These erosion and accretion phases may be related to the North Atlantic Oscillation Index. |
author2 |
Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique (LETG - Brest) Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique UMR 6554 (LETG) Université de Caen Normandie (UNICAEN) Normandie Université (NU)-Normandie Université (NU)-Université d'Angers (UA)-École pratique des hautes études (EPHE) Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université de Brest (UBO)-Université de Rennes 2 (UR2) Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Institut de Géographie et d'Aménagement Régional de l'Université de Nantes (IGARUN) Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Caen Normandie (UNICAEN) Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Nantes (UN) Domaines Océaniques (LDO) Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Institut d'écologie et environnement-Observatoire des Sciences de l'Univers-Université de Brest (UBO)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS) Laboratoire de physique des océans (LPO) Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer (IFREMER)-Université de Brest (UBO)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) France Energies Marines Brest Ecole des Ingénieurs de la Ville de Paris (EIVP) ANR-10-LABX-0019,LabexMER,LabexMER Marine Excellence Research: a changing ocean(2010) ANR-10-CEPL-0001,COCORISCO,COnnaissance, COmpréhension et gestion des RIsques COtiers(2010) |
format |
Article in Journal/Newspaper |
author |
Suanez, Serge, Cancouët, Romain Floc'H, France Blaise, Emmanuel Ardhuin, Fabrice Filipot, Jean-François Cariolet, Jean-Marie Delacourt, Christophe |
author_facet |
Suanez, Serge, Cancouët, Romain Floc'H, France Blaise, Emmanuel Ardhuin, Fabrice Filipot, Jean-François Cariolet, Jean-Marie Delacourt, Christophe |
author_sort |
Suanez, Serge, |
title |
Observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions |
title_short |
Observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions |
title_full |
Observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions |
title_fullStr |
Observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions |
title_full_unstemmed |
Observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions |
title_sort |
observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions |
publisher |
HAL CCSD |
publishDate |
2015 |
url |
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040/document https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040/file/Suanez_JMSE_2015.pdf https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse3030674 |
long_lat |
ENVELOPE(-67.524,-67.524,-67.581,-67.581) ENVELOPE(-59.167,-59.167,-62.333,-62.333) |
geographic |
Swash The Toe |
geographic_facet |
Swash The Toe |
genre |
North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation |
genre_facet |
North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation |
op_source |
ISSN: 2077-1312 Journal of Marine Science and Engineering https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040 Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, MDPI, 2015, 3 (3), pp.674-698. ⟨10.3390/jmse3030674⟩ |
op_relation |
info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/doi/10.3390/jmse3030674 hal-01176040 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040/document https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040/file/Suanez_JMSE_2015.pdf doi:10.3390/jmse3030674 |
op_rights |
info:eu-repo/semantics/OpenAccess |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse3030674 |
container_title |
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering |
container_volume |
3 |
container_issue |
3 |
container_start_page |
674 |
op_container_end_page |
698 |
_version_ |
1766133848759861248 |
spelling |
ftccsdartic:oai:HAL:hal-01176040v1 2023-05-15T17:34:53+02:00 Observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions Suanez, Serge, Cancouët, Romain Floc'H, France Blaise, Emmanuel Ardhuin, Fabrice Filipot, Jean-François Cariolet, Jean-Marie Delacourt, Christophe Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique (LETG - Brest) Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique UMR 6554 (LETG) Université de Caen Normandie (UNICAEN) Normandie Université (NU)-Normandie Université (NU)-Université d'Angers (UA)-École pratique des hautes études (EPHE) Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université de Brest (UBO)-Université de Rennes 2 (UR2) Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Institut de Géographie et d'Aménagement Régional de l'Université de Nantes (IGARUN) Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Caen Normandie (UNICAEN) Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Nantes (UN) Domaines Océaniques (LDO) Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Institut d'écologie et environnement-Observatoire des Sciences de l'Univers-Université de Brest (UBO)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS) Laboratoire de physique des océans (LPO) Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer (IFREMER)-Université de Brest (UBO)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) France Energies Marines Brest Ecole des Ingénieurs de la Ville de Paris (EIVP) ANR-10-LABX-0019,LabexMER,LabexMER Marine Excellence Research: a changing ocean(2010) ANR-10-CEPL-0001,COCORISCO,COnnaissance, COmpréhension et gestion des RIsques COtiers(2010) 2015 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040/document https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040/file/Suanez_JMSE_2015.pdf https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse3030674 en eng HAL CCSD MDPI info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/doi/10.3390/jmse3030674 hal-01176040 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040/document https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040/file/Suanez_JMSE_2015.pdf doi:10.3390/jmse3030674 info:eu-repo/semantics/OpenAccess ISSN: 2077-1312 Journal of Marine Science and Engineering https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01176040 Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, MDPI, 2015, 3 (3), pp.674-698. ⟨10.3390/jmse3030674⟩ dune storm runup macrotidal beach NAO extreme water level erosion [SDU.STU.GM]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Geomorphology [SDE]Environmental Sciences info:eu-repo/semantics/article Journal articles 2015 ftccsdartic https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse3030674 2021-12-26T00:13:23Z International audience Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004-2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide, (ii) storm surge, and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,-1, and high tide water level – HTWL) data sets obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01Hmoξo) and field runup measurements (Rmax) was obtained (R2 85%). The goodness of fit given by the RMSE was about 0.29 m. A good relationship was noticed between dune erosion and high water levels when the water levels exceeded the dune foot elevation. In contrast, when extreme water levels were below the height of the toe of the dune sediment budget increased, inducing foredune recovery. These erosion and accretion phases may be related to the North Atlantic Oscillation Index. Article in Journal/Newspaper North Atlantic North Atlantic oscillation Archive ouverte HAL (Hyper Article en Ligne, CCSD - Centre pour la Communication Scientifique Directe) Swash ENVELOPE(-67.524,-67.524,-67.581,-67.581) The Toe ENVELOPE(-59.167,-59.167,-62.333,-62.333) Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 3 3 674 698 |