Draw-down and run-up of tsunami waves on sloping beaches
The dynamics of waves and their interaction with a beach depends on whether the leading wave component is elevated or depressed. These differences are explained in this paper using a hydraulic model and the principle of conservation of impulse. Laboratory experiments of depression waves, conducted u...
Published in: | Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Engineering and Computational Mechanics |
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Online Access: | http://dx.doi.org/10.1680/eacm.10.00044 https://www.icevirtuallibrary.com/doi/pdf/10.1680/eacm.10.00044 |
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crtelford:10.1680/eacm.10.00044 2023-05-15T15:10:19+02:00 Draw-down and run-up of tsunami waves on sloping beaches Klettner, Christian Balasubramanian, Sridhar Hunt, Julian Fernando, Harindra Voropayev, Sergey Eames, Ian 2012 http://dx.doi.org/10.1680/eacm.10.00044 https://www.icevirtuallibrary.com/doi/pdf/10.1680/eacm.10.00044 en eng Thomas Telford Ltd. Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Engineering and Computational Mechanics volume 165, issue 2, page 119-129 ISSN 1755-0777 1755-0785 Mechanics of Materials Civil and Structural Engineering journal-article 2012 crtelford https://doi.org/10.1680/eacm.10.00044 2022-10-03T21:56:21Z The dynamics of waves and their interaction with a beach depends on whether the leading wave component is elevated or depressed. These differences are explained in this paper using a hydraulic model and the principle of conservation of impulse. Laboratory experiments of depression waves, conducted using a novel wavemaker, are compared with model predictions. Over a sloping beach, these waves have a nearly constant V-shaped depression trailed by a growing Λ-shaped positive wave. The shoreline recedes over a significant distance, caused by shoreward water being drawn into the V-shaped depression. When the trailing Λ-shaped positive wave breaks, an energetic hydraulic bore develops and moves up the beach. The hydraulic model leads to general formulae for wave slopes, draw-down and run-up. The run-up of negative waves can be larger or smaller than that of positive waves, depending on the wave amplitude and beach parameters. The predictions are compared with results from photographs of depression waves taken during the 2004 Sumatra tsunami. Similar phenomena occurred in Japan in 2011. By incorporating up/down amplitude data in new tsunami warning systems, the properties of tsunamis on beaches could be estimated in real time using the present work, thus improving emergency response strategies. In future, the damage associated with tsunami waves, depending on coastal parameters, could increase with rising sea levels, erosion and destruction of coral reefs, and the loss of Arctic sea-ice. Article in Journal/Newspaper Arctic Sea ice ICE Virtual Library (ICE Publishing - via Crossref) Arctic Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Engineering and Computational Mechanics 165 2 119 129 |
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Open Polar |
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ICE Virtual Library (ICE Publishing - via Crossref) |
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crtelford |
language |
English |
topic |
Mechanics of Materials Civil and Structural Engineering |
spellingShingle |
Mechanics of Materials Civil and Structural Engineering Klettner, Christian Balasubramanian, Sridhar Hunt, Julian Fernando, Harindra Voropayev, Sergey Eames, Ian Draw-down and run-up of tsunami waves on sloping beaches |
topic_facet |
Mechanics of Materials Civil and Structural Engineering |
description |
The dynamics of waves and their interaction with a beach depends on whether the leading wave component is elevated or depressed. These differences are explained in this paper using a hydraulic model and the principle of conservation of impulse. Laboratory experiments of depression waves, conducted using a novel wavemaker, are compared with model predictions. Over a sloping beach, these waves have a nearly constant V-shaped depression trailed by a growing Λ-shaped positive wave. The shoreline recedes over a significant distance, caused by shoreward water being drawn into the V-shaped depression. When the trailing Λ-shaped positive wave breaks, an energetic hydraulic bore develops and moves up the beach. The hydraulic model leads to general formulae for wave slopes, draw-down and run-up. The run-up of negative waves can be larger or smaller than that of positive waves, depending on the wave amplitude and beach parameters. The predictions are compared with results from photographs of depression waves taken during the 2004 Sumatra tsunami. Similar phenomena occurred in Japan in 2011. By incorporating up/down amplitude data in new tsunami warning systems, the properties of tsunamis on beaches could be estimated in real time using the present work, thus improving emergency response strategies. In future, the damage associated with tsunami waves, depending on coastal parameters, could increase with rising sea levels, erosion and destruction of coral reefs, and the loss of Arctic sea-ice. |
format |
Article in Journal/Newspaper |
author |
Klettner, Christian Balasubramanian, Sridhar Hunt, Julian Fernando, Harindra Voropayev, Sergey Eames, Ian |
author_facet |
Klettner, Christian Balasubramanian, Sridhar Hunt, Julian Fernando, Harindra Voropayev, Sergey Eames, Ian |
author_sort |
Klettner, Christian |
title |
Draw-down and run-up of tsunami waves on sloping beaches |
title_short |
Draw-down and run-up of tsunami waves on sloping beaches |
title_full |
Draw-down and run-up of tsunami waves on sloping beaches |
title_fullStr |
Draw-down and run-up of tsunami waves on sloping beaches |
title_full_unstemmed |
Draw-down and run-up of tsunami waves on sloping beaches |
title_sort |
draw-down and run-up of tsunami waves on sloping beaches |
publisher |
Thomas Telford Ltd. |
publishDate |
2012 |
url |
http://dx.doi.org/10.1680/eacm.10.00044 https://www.icevirtuallibrary.com/doi/pdf/10.1680/eacm.10.00044 |
geographic |
Arctic |
geographic_facet |
Arctic |
genre |
Arctic Sea ice |
genre_facet |
Arctic Sea ice |
op_source |
Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Engineering and Computational Mechanics volume 165, issue 2, page 119-129 ISSN 1755-0777 1755-0785 |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.1680/eacm.10.00044 |
container_title |
Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Engineering and Computational Mechanics |
container_volume |
165 |
container_issue |
2 |
container_start_page |
119 |
op_container_end_page |
129 |
_version_ |
1766341354261053440 |