Eider Skin Garments Used by the Ungava Unuit from the Belcher Islands, Northwest Territories: Construction and Context

• Published in: Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
• Main Author: Oakes, Jill
• Format: Article in Journal/Newspaper
• Language: English
• Published: SAGE Publications 1992
• Subjects: Polymers and Plastics; General Business, Management and Accounting; Materials Science (miscellaneous); Business, Management and Accounting (miscellaneous); Belcher; Belcher Islands; Northwest Territories; inuit
• Online Access: http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0887302x9201000201; http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1177/0887302X9201000201

Until recently, ancient skin clothing construction procedures using a variety of mammals, frsh, and birds have been passed down from one generation to the next in Inuit culture. Since about 1890, eider skins have been used for clothing on the Belcher Islands by the Ungava Inuit. Since the 1960's few young people have learned the historical skills of producing eider skin clothing from their elders. These skills have become obsolete in today's modern world The purpose of this research paper is to record procedures used to construct, lay out, alter, and maintain bird skin garments. It is critical to document these techniques before the elders who have the knowledge pass away. Participant-observation technique supplemented with data from museum artifacts, historic photographs, archival sources, and literature was used to collect detailed information on production procedures used to make men's, women's, and children's parkas, bonnets, stockings, and overslippers. A comparison is made between historical and contemporary sewing tools, construction techniques, and materials used in bird skin garments. Findings provide a more complete understanding of the role of dress in social/cultural survival. Findings also record an obsolete garment construction technique which will enable future generations to learn about their own historic material culture based on information presented by their ancestors.