An investigation of storm waves in the North Atlantic Ocean
Since February 1953 the Ocean Weather Ship Weather Explorer , using a shipborne wave recorder, has taken records of waves at the positions ‘India’ (61° 00' N, 15° 20' W) and ‘Juliet’ (52° 20' N, 20° 00'W). An investigation of the records shows that conditions of wave generation i...
Published in: | Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences |
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Format: | Article in Journal/Newspaper |
Language: | English |
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The Royal Society
1955
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Online Access: | http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rspa.1955.0151 https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/pdf/10.1098/rspa.1955.0151 |
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crroyalsociety:10.1098/rspa.1955.0151 2024-06-02T08:11:22+00:00 An investigation of storm waves in the North Atlantic Ocean 1955 http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rspa.1955.0151 https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/pdf/10.1098/rspa.1955.0151 en eng The Royal Society https://royalsociety.org/journals/ethics-policies/data-sharing-mining/ Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences volume 230, issue 1183, page 560-569 ISSN 0080-4630 2053-9169 journal-article 1955 crroyalsociety https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.1955.0151 2024-05-07T14:16:57Z Since February 1953 the Ocean Weather Ship Weather Explorer , using a shipborne wave recorder, has taken records of waves at the positions ‘India’ (61° 00' N, 15° 20' W) and ‘Juliet’ (52° 20' N, 20° 00'W). An investigation of the records shows that conditions of wave generation in the deep ocean are different from those on the continental shelf. In both deep and shallow water, the steepness of the highest waves decreases as the fetch increases until an equilibrium value is reached after about 100 miles. In deep water this equilibrium value increases with the wind speed, whereas in shallow water it tends to decrease with wind speed. Different empirical rules are required for wave prediction in the deep ocean and the shallow sea. The difference can probably be attributed to a greater effect of turbulence near the coast, where the depth is of the same order as the wavelength and there are active tidal streams. Article in Journal/Newspaper North Atlantic The Royal Society Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences 230 1183 560 569 |
institution |
Open Polar |
collection |
The Royal Society |
op_collection_id |
crroyalsociety |
language |
English |
description |
Since February 1953 the Ocean Weather Ship Weather Explorer , using a shipborne wave recorder, has taken records of waves at the positions ‘India’ (61° 00' N, 15° 20' W) and ‘Juliet’ (52° 20' N, 20° 00'W). An investigation of the records shows that conditions of wave generation in the deep ocean are different from those on the continental shelf. In both deep and shallow water, the steepness of the highest waves decreases as the fetch increases until an equilibrium value is reached after about 100 miles. In deep water this equilibrium value increases with the wind speed, whereas in shallow water it tends to decrease with wind speed. Different empirical rules are required for wave prediction in the deep ocean and the shallow sea. The difference can probably be attributed to a greater effect of turbulence near the coast, where the depth is of the same order as the wavelength and there are active tidal streams. |
format |
Article in Journal/Newspaper |
title |
An investigation of storm waves in the North Atlantic Ocean |
spellingShingle |
An investigation of storm waves in the North Atlantic Ocean |
title_short |
An investigation of storm waves in the North Atlantic Ocean |
title_full |
An investigation of storm waves in the North Atlantic Ocean |
title_fullStr |
An investigation of storm waves in the North Atlantic Ocean |
title_full_unstemmed |
An investigation of storm waves in the North Atlantic Ocean |
title_sort |
investigation of storm waves in the north atlantic ocean |
publisher |
The Royal Society |
publishDate |
1955 |
url |
http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rspa.1955.0151 https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/pdf/10.1098/rspa.1955.0151 |
genre |
North Atlantic |
genre_facet |
North Atlantic |
op_source |
Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences volume 230, issue 1183, page 560-569 ISSN 0080-4630 2053-9169 |
op_rights |
https://royalsociety.org/journals/ethics-policies/data-sharing-mining/ |
op_doi |
https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.1955.0151 |
container_title |
Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences |
container_volume |
230 |
container_issue |
1183 |
container_start_page |
560 |
op_container_end_page |
569 |
_version_ |
1800757474251243520 |